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Single handed Sink tips

2233 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  sinktip
Well I got a new 10 Ft 8 wt Scott and I am trying to figure out what line to put on it. I will fish a full floater on it in the summer especially on the Umpqua (which is mainly why I got it) and I like the TT or Mastery Steelhead taper or even the single handed windcutter. But I also got it to have a single handed winter rod for smaller river where the spey rod is too much. I am trying to figure out what line to put on it for tip system. I have 8 wt tips from my spey habit or is it an addiction. I don't have a ton of experience with recipe for single handed tip systems so does anyone have a good one out there. What line they like for a single handed tips I was thinking either the Mastery Steelhead taper, with the 65' belly, cut back about 15-16 feet or The Triangle Taper, with the 50 foot belly, but have no idea how for to cut it back. Any other options I may over looked or good recipes.



PS: Any one out there had experience with the Redington Reels. For the price they look nice. How is the drag?
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Why not try throwing whatever your throwing on either of your two handers? The total head length of the "standard windcutter" is only 42 ft. I would guess that you want to rollcast that bad boy and that short belly might impact presentation (if that is important on the NFU?).

I'm scheduled up in Seattle next week I throwing some gear on the plane I've got a Windcutter 8/9/10 that you might find interesting if we can hook up. I throw it on the Burkheimer and for a Windcutter, I like the balance with the rod. Is BG keeping a tight leash or if things could you get some time?

change is the only constant
I am going to try the DT8 that I have a loop on it to see how it handles. I have thrown my single handed Windcutter 8WT on it and it throws nice and I also threw a TT 7\8 spey and I really liked how that handled so I may just put a loop on that one and call it good. I am just looking for a good excuse to buy a new line and reel. :)

Next week is very bad for me. We have a milestone (half way) in our project next friday so it is head down for a bit. I will let you know when you coming up?

This is always a tough question. When I first started cutting lines I would buy a really cheap FWF, cut it and re-cut it if needed to get the feel for the line with the rod. Then I would upgrade to a Mastery or something and the balance was way off again! I did learn a lesson, but it wasn't the one I had hoped.

As my circle of hybrid head buddies increased, I got more recipes from people who had made the plunge with their lines already and that was a huge help.

IMHO - What it really boils down to is three things, which I am sure you already know...

a) grain weight and distribution for the rod
b) complementary to the tips you want to fish
c) line control and presentation

a) If it doesn't work for the rod, it's wrong. That's a no brainer. If it's too light, the rod won't load; if the head's too heavy and short, the cast becomes a risky chuck and duck. yada yada.

b) I think we all have favorite tips, or at least we start to accumulate tips with certain pools or water levels. If you are fishing through a situation and "THE" tip doesn't cast well on a particular line configuration, you aren't going to be happy. Therefore the back half of the head should accomodate the tips you want to fish.

b2) On the other hand, the tips can also accomodate the head. Just as a quick switch of a tip can change the way a line casts drastically - there may be a workable tip for the line as it has been cut. I tend to favor the tip because it governs the presentation over specific pools and thus I'd rather have a line that accomodates the tip than the opposite.

c) Line control and presentation on top of AND below the surface - these are the reasons we ask such questions, figure out good hybrid mixes, and don't just use teeny lines and/or full sink lines in this application. We want to be able to cast a hingeless head, mend the line, and reduce the amount of flourescent chartruese fly line whiplashing through a gin-clear winter pool.

So it stands to reason that a real short back end with a long tip would be fine in a down and across situation but it would reduce the line control advantages of mending long casts, etc. In the half and half situation (about 15 feet of a 30 foot WF body) half the "heavy stuff" floats and is mendable, half is not. If for no other reason, this is at least balanced for line control.

My experience has been that cutting too little is a waste of time and creates a useless floating tip. I suspect that cutting too much sucks too. There's probably a fairly large slop factor provided you are willing to adjust the tips to match the head portion.

In any case... good luck and please (everybody) log the cuts you've made and the outcome for future inquiries of this nature!
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If your still itchen I have a new 4" Bougle that I think I'm going to sell either that or a 3 3/4 perfect. Too many reels. Got the next week thing my travel schedule is bouncing daily. My other Seattle shot is the week after but I think I'll try to get Sonic/Laker tixs.


I've got a Mastery Steelhead taper cut back 18' and then looped with 15' Rio tips. I'm not using it much these days so if you want to borrow it for a day or two, no problem. Even better yet, you and I still need to get out on the river soon. I like this setup and use it on my 10' 8 weight Scott but can't honestly say it is any better that the others mentioned.

As for the Redington reels, I've got the 11/12 on my 8150 and like it quite a bit. The only complaint I have is that it is too quiet. I don't need the sound of a Hardy but I do like to hear the fish run. Other than that, they are a sweet reel for the price. I haven't had any trouble with mine and I know of 4 others that friends own that have been flawless. If they only had some "click".

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