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Old 09-07-2003, 05:11 PM
flytyer flytyer is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NW Washington
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That may work; but because you lack a hook eye with the tube, I suspect the masectomy problem will surface again. Make the hole in the tube before you tie the fly. Then tie on the boobies and tie off the thtread. After this, tie the thread on behind the hole in the tube and finish the fly. This slight variation in tying sequence would fix the problem and take very little extra time (an extra second or two at most).
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Old 09-08-2003, 12:25 PM
Bee Bee is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: foam lines and seams
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stabilizing the hook

Are you fellas using anything to stabilize the hook inside the brake tubing...? On some of the tube sizes I am using, the hook is somewhat loose inside the tube, and it occurs to me that I might want to use a short piece of smaller tubing, , say 1/4 in long, pushed over the hook above the bend, in order to keep the hook from free-twisting inside the you fellas worry about that on these drys , or do you just let the hook go where ever it wishes inside the reaR OF THE tube? I realize the leader will hold it somewhat in place, just wondering if you take another step to stabilize it ?de
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Old 09-08-2003, 03:17 PM
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kush kush is offline
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Location: West Coast
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I think that it is especially important with waking flies that the hook be stable. First it acts as a keel and secondly the nature of most takes on wakers makess it imperitive that the hook point is exposed and in the best position for a hook-up.

When I designed the fly, the tubing I used was the 1/8 brake line which made a very tight squeeze for the Nordic Single hook I prefer. If you are using hook eyes that don't fit snuggly, by all means employ some sort of hook keeper - I have used very small diameter surgical tubing on many of my flies. I buy mine at a model shop where it is sold as fuel line for gas powered models.
Tight lines - tyler.

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