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>> Archive: Striper (etc) Flies Tricks of the trade

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Old 11-18-2002, 09:28 PM
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striblue striblue is offline
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Five-Feather Herring

Here is one I copied from Doug Jowett and also from Klausmeyer's book. Good for stripers and Blues.... Hook-Varivas #1/0 long.......thread-Clear mono....... Underbody- glass rattle.....Tail- White saddle hackle tied splayed or squid style.... Wing- Chartreuse fish hair, pearl saltwater flashabou,and bunch of Peacock herl...... Eyes- Medium Gold stick ons....... Gill- A band of orange tying thread...... Head- two coats of 5 minute epoxy.
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Last edited by striblue; 11-18-2002 at 09:30 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-19-2002, 07:15 AM
BirdFish BirdFish is offline
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That's a nice fly, John. When this fly first appeared in SaltWater Flyfishing 5 or so years ago, I tied up a bunch of them. I was fishing a lot up in Maine and had good success with this fly. The big ones can be tough to cast, but they are worth it. Try tying one up in all black as an eel imitation.
Dave Williams
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Old 01-24-2004, 12:40 PM
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Here is the recipe I got for this fly from Doug Jowett, who is the originator and sent it to me this morning..."MATERIALS

Hook - Mustad 34011, sizes 2 to 5/0

thread: white.

Body: Plastic rattle tied on top of the hook shank and epoxied in place; if a rattle isn't used, tie a clump of bucktail over the hook shank to build up the body.

Tail - White saddle hackles, five feathers to a side.

Underwing: White bucktail

Collar: White bucktail

Wing: Chartreuse FisHair, tipped with 12 to 14 stands of peacock herl

Eyes: Lead or chrome dumbbell

Lateral Line: Pearl Flashabou tied in at the cheeks.

Head: Thread coated with epoxy


DIRECTIONS

1. Wrap a thread base on the hook and attach a rattle about one-quarter inch back from the hook eye. Wrap the thread forward and back over the rattle, and then wind the thread back to the hook bend. Coat the rattle with epoxy, using a toothpick to force the epoxy under and around the rattle. Let it cure. (I usually complete this step on a few dozen hooks before continuing.

2. Stack five saddle hackles together, placing the two best feathers of the bunch on the outsides of the stack. Position the feathers on one side of the hook, with the curved tips flared out. The feathers should extend at least 3 1/2 inches beyond the hook bend. Tie the feathers in above the hook point, and wrap the thread forward to the rattle. Allow some of the web in the feathers to show. Attach another stack of five feathers on the opposite side of the hook. Apply head cement to the wraps of the thread.

3. Tie a clump of white bucktail on each side of the hook; the hair should extend over three-quarters of the tail. Tie another clump of bucktail on the top of the hook; this will keep the FisHair from marrying with the saddle hackles when the fly is wet. Next, tie in a small clump of bucktail under the shank, but be careful not to fill the hook gap. Trim the excess bucktail so that it's even with the front of the rattle, and coat the hair surrounding the rattle, and coat the hair surrounding the rattle with head cement. (If you're not using a rattle, tie another clump of bucktail over the hook shank to fill out the body.)

4. Tie on a dumbbell weight, just behind the hook eye, using figure-eight wraps. Apply cement to the thread wraps.

5. Tie on a bunch of FisHair in front of the rattle. The FisHair wing should be shorter that the tail. Pull the excess FisHair between the dumbbell eyes, and tie it down. Trim the excess and apply cement to the thread wraps.

6. Tie in the peacock herl over the FisHair. Tie down the excess herl so it fill the gap in front of the rattle. Again, coat the thread wraps with cement.

7. Tie in the Flashabou, four strips to a side; the material should extend the length of the body. (With a size 2 hook, use only two strips of flashabou on each side; with a size 5/0 hook, use five strips.)

8. Finish wrapping the head, whip-finish, and add yet another dose of cement.

9. Apply a light coat of epoxy over the head, especially between and under the eyes.

From Saltwater Fly Fishing Magazine - page 22 - Spring 1996. "
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