I use the knot for the situation. Most times, an improved clinch knot for tippet-to-fly is a good knot.
I recently read an article on fluorocarbon, where a "premium" company did extensive testing (very scientific, using an Instron recording tensile tester), and they specify a standard 6-turn clinch knot as being the strongest. They also were very specific about wetting the knot, and pulling it tight with a "jerk" (the action, not your fishing buddy) for best results, as it is very susceptible to thermal (friction) damage. The results were also very repetitive. I now use that knot for fluorocarbon, and have found that it is a good knot for the application.
Interestingly, they also recommend the four-turn surgeon's knot for attaching the fluorocarbon tippet to the mono leader. It works well, using the wetting/tightening action described above. Prior to that I had problems with tippets breaking at their junction knot.
I also use other knots for specific applications and other types of fishing.
"Interestingly, they also recommend the four-turn surgeon's knot for attaching the fluorocarbon tippet to the mono leader. It works well, using the wetting/tightening action described above. Prior to that I had problems with tippets breaking at their junction knot"
To build leaders I'll use a good old barrel knot, to attach tippet materials (especially if it's going to be fluorocarbon) with a tripple sugeon's knot. Interesting the 'do it quick' part on snugging up the pieces. That I didn't know.
fae
Improved clinch, trilene knot, Duncan knot (nymphs)
surgeons knot (3x and 4x), not sure about the improved clinch though for fluro carbons yet, lost a couple of steelhead due to that knot using fluor carbon. Might have been me ?
Suppose to pull the knot quickly together for the flour carbons in order for it to tighten correctly.
I need to practice that, put that on my to do list.
The knot that I use the most often is the non-slip loop knot. I use this for almost every single salt water fly that I tie on, and for all large freshwater streamers and topwater patterns. For smaller stuff like nymphs and dries, I use the regular turtle knot.
I've trusted my life to this knot using it to tie life lines and anchor gear when using Samson Braid Line (Round Woven Rope) and have never had one come apart. So I figure if it's good enough for that it should hold a fish.
Improve clinch.
Reason:
What Pete (Frenchcreek) said.
Surgoens for tying leader sections together unless I'm home with the "How To" in front of me. Then I'll use the Orvis knot for tapered leaders and Blood knots for the heavy stuff in the butt.
1. Palomar for dead drifting nymphs.
2. Improved turle for dry flies.
3. Non-slip mono for imparting action to a fly.
4. Snelled when using shock tippet to insure the fly tracks correctly.
It's raining, the rivers are blown out, I'm tired of tying, so here goes...
The 16-20 knot is my current favorite, followed by Kreh's no-slip loop, and then the Trilene knot.
Those unfamiliar with the 16-20 should give it a try. I came across it while checking out an Alantic Salmon website and have been impressed with it's strength, durability, and compact structure. I've yet to have a single 16-20 knot fail.
I use blood knots for leaders to the tippet. I attach that with a double surgeons.
I use the non-slip loop to attach tippets to the polyleaders I use.
I use the Jansick special to attach hooks, because I have found it to be stronger than the Palomar. I will also use the non-slip loop for some hooks for summer steelhead.
For me its improved clinch and Palomar. anything with an up or down eye gets the Palomar.
Skilly
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