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thread for whipped loops

6K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  Nooksack Mac 
#1 ·
Hi. I am getting ready to do my first whipped loops in my fly line. My question is about which thread is appropriate for this. I have heard Kevlar mentioned. I have some 6/0 prewaxed Orvis thread ( I know nothing about fly tying....yet). Will the 6/0 work??
This setup will be for saltwater (bonefish, permit, tarpon).
thanks for your help,
jon
 
#2 ·
Are you planning on using the "spinning bobbin" method? Unless the 6/0 is Kevlar, might be a tad weak. A spinning bobbin that becomes a flying bobbin could do some damage :Eyecrazy: I've used Orvis G and it holds up fine.
 
#3 ·
Adrian thanks for the reply. Yes I was planning on using the spinning bobbin method....will have to rethink that though:eek:

What thread do you suggest? I have read of people using mono (like 10lb test) but can't imagine how I would hook that up to the bobbin to spin????? Is it done another way with mono?

thanks for your help,
jon
 
#4 ·
Wet line,
I use the method you are describing, I use either Kevelar thread I am not sure of the size, the lable is missing of the spool. or I use Danvilles fine mono. I prefer the kevelar for heavier saltwater stuff & the mono for lighter trout sized line.
 
#5 ·
Wet Line

I have not seen anyone using 10 lb mono to spin a loop but I have seen a number of people, including me, using 10 lb mono to make two nail knots to form the loop. The knots are placed about an 1/8" apart and then glued.

I recently had the Bears Den rig a 12 wt outfit for me for small tuna and Scott used two nail knots to form each loop and then coated them with something which I think was called KnotSense ( the stuff you cure with a light). Since Scott knows what he is doing I would have confidence in a loop which was formed using nail knots.

Dan
 
#7 ·
Some comments: Either loop system works very well as do various means of attaching a braided loop. Depending upon its diameter I wouldn't use any mono over 10lb to form the two nail knots. You need the mono to dig into the fly line coating and heavier mono really won't do it that well. The same is true of the thread used in the spinning loop. You want it to be reasonably strong, but still quite thin so it bites into the coating. Be careful when applying Knot Sense. It works well, but the tendency is to use more than needed. The problem that I experienced there is that it creates enough weight in the tip of a floating line that the tip will sink. We often blame fly line companies when our tips sink, but many times it's what we've done to that tip (which by definition has the thinnest layer of coating of the entire head) that causes the tip to sink. I've gone back to what I used to use years ago (the 1970s), Pliobond. You can actually apply two or three very thin layers of Pliobond and not have it be as bulky/heavy as one layer of Knot Sense that's not carefully applied.
 
#9 ·
Fly Line Loops

The two nail knot system is MUCH stronger than the whipped loop.
A couple of suggestions though:
If you make the nail knots out of 40 pound GelSpun they will be stronger than made out of 10 pound mono.
Remember to cut the tag of the loop on a taper and then I coat them with Pliobond so they will fly through the guides.
Regular Loon’s Knot Sense is OK but I tried the UV stuff and it peeled off after a season.
Hope this helps .......
 
#10 ·
6/0 thread should work fine as long as your bobbin isn't nicked up. A drop of zap a gap seems to seal it up nicely (and quickly). I don't think one method is stonger than the other as long as the tension is there when you spin the bobbin or tie your nail knots. If you want something super-strong you shoudl probably be looking into a double-catch whipped loop of 50# braided mono anyway...
 
#11 ·
Guys thanks. Now I am torn between the nail knot and the thread!! :Eyecrazy:

reading a lot of Lefty Kreh's stuff , he always talks about using thread....so that recomendation goes a long way...but it seems a lot of the guys on the forums are using nail knots. Seems it's a win win situation as most likely neither will fail.

thanks for all the suggestions,
jon
 
#12 ·
Monocord

There's a popular tying thread called Monocord, approx. 3/0 and usually unwaxed. It's used for tying larger flies. That's excellent for spinning-bobbin wraps. Anything of similar size is also suitable. Since the thread is protected by a top coat, its size is not critical. I'd trust 6/0 for most freshwater lines.

The spinning bobbin method puts over 100 wraps in a one-inch splice. That's a lot of gription. I've found that a 1/2" splice is stronger than 20 lb. test leader. I coat splices with about six coats of clear nail hardener, found in the cosmetics section. Each coat dries quickly, and is flexible.
 
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