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Corsair Deep eel

4K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  JimD 
#1 ·
I was fooling around and wanted to start thinking about working on a variation of the deep eel...not that it needs anything but I wanted to try this out....nothing new here.... but I used to epoxy the hook shank sealing in the unique or super hair which would help with fouling... I was looking at tubing and corsair flies which looked very real and was all corsair with some flash as a tail.. It also had eyes glued as in the surf candies.....so I want to try using a longer peice of coursair with a clouser eye..... and may make it longer.....instead of the epoxy. This is just an experiment and was not really finished lacking one or two strands of flash and coloring the top in olive to match the olive strands off the tail....The action should remain but the profile will not flay inbetween strips or in deep current drift, keep it's shape and not foul. The coursair is about the thickness of an average size sand eel. I want to try this on the flats with finicky fish and make it look as real as possible and keep it's shape.
 
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#3 ·
I think 2/0...but I will also look into the soft bond instead of the corsair....just to include some of these in my box....and to use exclusively ..on the flats.... it is very thin.about half the size of a pencil width but 6 inches long
 
#4 ·
Hi John,

I have been experimenting with Bug Bond on the Deep Eels. I lay the eel on a piece of waxed paper and lightly brush a light amount into the Super Hair with a toothpick or "popsickle" stick to about a half inch beyond the hook bend. I did try brushing one lightly over entire length and while Bug Bond is flexible, I think that will kill the action. My latest thought is to do the Bug Bond again about a half inch beyond the bend and then try a short section (less that 1/2 inch) about half way down the tail. That might control the Super Hair to minimize tangling and still allow the appropriate action. Still a work in progress and none tested yet as they can't swim in snow.

Bug Bond, by the way is flexible, cures fast with UV, and there is no sticky finish. My ClearCureGoo UV light works fine on Bug Bond.

Jim D.

P.S. Your avatar look great; must have been a pro photographer that took the picture. :smile:
 
#5 ·
Hi Jim, sounds like a better approach and I will work on this....I am looking for small thin sand eels like we see on the flats.... but I want to keep them in a thin profile in all conditions...no splaying out in current or in between strips...naturally this may all be pie in the sky as we know the deep eel without this treatment does work...but I am also thinking of doing these without clouser eye...just the stick ons also.....since we are usually in skinny water also. The photographer was a pro...do you know any;)
 
#7 ·
Meaning no disrespect, my conclusions from the years of evolution I've put this pattern through is that properly chosen materials and tying technique virtually eliminates tangling, and I like the full body undulation. My most recent findings have proven that action is the clincher in tough flats conditions.

I have gone thru 8-12 hour days where the only tangling has been after a fish has mauled it, and if the right materials are used a simple dragging of another fly's hook thru the fibers corrects it in a minute.

I've yet to tie the first generations of the patterns I drew up winter before last, some inspired by observations in Acklins but applicable to stripers. Winter steelheading has been a distraction :)
 
#8 · (Edited)
Yes, like I said the pattern is excellent...and I have used it for years tied the way you taught me....and I still like the wide presentation and it works but I want to try with a thinner one...nothing ventured nothing gained but it does foul on occasion as any clouser type fly will....and... that's ok since the fly is perfect as an imitator. I find the fouling is more with unique hair as oppose to super hair....I have been using unique hair more lately....Unique hair is finer. Paul...with the eyes only it will ride hook down.... I will still use the weight more often and keep the dumbell in for a hook up...over the years I have forsaken Harry Koon's rat's arse for the deep eel. This year I expect to have more of Koon's fly which was very productive for me.... in fact the only two sand eel flies I used is the deep eel and rat's arse (tied my way which is just a variation of Harry's original design)....in the surf on south beach and at the rip...the rat's arse was a great fly. I would not use it on the flats however since it lacks subtleness. In all fairness...it is not the fouling , which is as Juro says not a big deal....it is that I should have emphasized that I want a thinner profile as an experiment. Deep eels done with DNA did foul more than super hair... even in combinations...but too much DNA took the transparency away.
 
#9 ·
Agreed, there is never an end to evolution (thankfully). I've often thought of some kind of 'girdle' but I haven't come across a material that is supple enough, nor have the fish given me a real reason to pursue it frankly.

However they have given me plenty of reasons to pursue other patterns for other forage species besides the sand eel.
 
#12 ·
I think I over emphasized the fouling...it is only on occasion so let me say that my actual point was to get a thinner profile USING the same amount of material. I can not help tying them right having watched you for 10 years.... and I also think we have stuff on line here with the step by step. But even Pete Gray carries a little brush with him for tangled deep eel....on occasion;)
 
#13 ·
Based on the comments, it seems that maybe I'm worrying a problem that doesn't exist. I have been using Superhair and haven't had a problem with overall length of up to 4 1/2-5 inches. I recently tied a few that approach 7 inches and presumed that I would have an issue, but I haven't taken them to water. Based on advice here, I'm going to fish with them before doing anything more!
 
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