Two-handed casting 1-2-3 - Fly Fishing Forum
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Old 06-14-2004, 11:19 AM
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Two-handed casting 1-2-3

I am putting together a training sequence called 'three steps to a full line' for two-handed casters. My intent with this is to demystify casting the Atlantis, and it's free for owners. By full line I mean 115ft casts from foot to fly minus wiggles, or a 105ft tarpon intermediate line with a 10ft leader. (We can play around with much longer distances with shooting heads and running lines as well)

As this gets completed and I try to figure out when to get together, I thought I would post a few notes:

Step one: Getting to two hands from one

This part will talk about the changes you will encounter from an ingrained single handed casting style to a two-handed overhead casting style.
  • line is held by rod hands, there is no line hand
  • line is slipped through fingers in rod grip to lengthen false casts
  • no double haul, just a lower pull
  • stroke is easier to throw off track because of the pulling of the bottom hand and longer rod
  • rod is prone to dip (butt trunking) during backcast because of kickout of butt to power backcast
  • straight tracking is critical to good cast
  • more abrupt stroke and higher stop to shoot
  • both shooting heads and whole lines
  • setup techniques - sideslip, shooting roll, snake, circle
  • stroke-tracking improvement exercises are important
At end of part I - comfortable setting up, lifting and stroke making smooth minimum effort casts with clean loop shape, angle and loop elevation. Distance unimportant, only loops that track well and are formed correctly.

Part II: Adding acceleration

Making sure all of part I is working, work on applying a smooth acceleration to a hard stop at the proper point in the stroke, and shooting running line. This should result in consistent, clean 85 foot casts from both shoulders, either left-up or cross-handed. The motion should be effortless and the results consistent.
  • from proper stop on backcast, make a final stroke that accelerates just a little more than false casts
  • shoot running line and finish with rod angle correct
  • focus on 'alley' where the loop needs to travel

Outcome: get a working cast without any exertion, just a little bit of acceleration added.

Part III: Extending the stroke length, adding more acceleration to maximize the cast.

Part III should put the backing knot into the guides with little more than a drift at the end of the backcast to lengthen the stroke and a touch more acceleration. The angle of the rod must not be dipped down, "no trunking" during the backward drift. The drift allows the backcast to travel backward in the stroke, giving the angler a longer potential stroke length to leverage in the path of acceleration.
  • alignment of the loop (angle of aim)
  • elevation of the loop
  • acceleration method (leading before the snap/stop), smooth leading acceleration to a powerful snap
  • attention to shape of loop
  • shooting of running line
  • ease of execution

I think the single factor that makes casting the Atlantis easier for the practitioner is learning to relax and let the rod do the work, which is how it was designed to be cast. This simple three-step method makes the caster feel out the simple basics - stroke, acceleration and shooting techniques. Give them a try and I hope we can get together with the long rods soon.

Pitfalls:

The most common problems people I see people have with their recently acquired two-handers include:

Excessive overhang - Too much of the running line is put out and a big hinge is introduced into the casting stroke. I am prone to go for too much overhand on occasion, so am very familiar with the problems it introduces.

Rod path - a longer rod with a power plant at the butt often gets yanked out of a straight path of travel, which is even more important for two-handed casting than for single handed casting since there is no double haul to overdrive the stroke out of trouble.

Line slipping thru hands - Single handed casting uses a 'free' hand to hold the line, two-handed casting can not. A three finger grip (under the middle finger, against the ring and index either side) dramatically improves the holding and slipping power of the hand against the line.

Application of power in the casting stroke - acceleration is not smooth or gradual leading to the speed/stop. Essentially trying too hard instead of letting the rod do the work.

Familiarizing with setting up between casts - Short heads, long heads, etc. Longer heads require a little more technique to roll out to aerialize but hold their loop over greater distances. Short lines are expedient and effective in carrying big flies out there. The angler needs to choose the weapon for what they plan to do.

Also:

The top ferrule should be taped. It's far enough away so that it doesn't get checked and if it comes loose and you try to cast 600 grains it's not going to survive the shock. Please tape the top ferrule of any two-handed rod as the spey afficionados out west and in Europe all do.
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Old 06-15-2004, 12:58 PM
DickIvers DickIvers is offline
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Juro,

I'm in for any and all training sessions.

After more practice outings my 2-handed casting is getting worse. I'm about ready to put the Atlantis on ebay.

There are many questions/problems too numerous to mention here. I think the biggest difficulty for non-spey casters is the use of the lower(left) hand. The fingers on that hand must release and regrip line as well as move the rod. Unless you play the saxaphone this is hard to do.

Please keep me updated on on training dates.

Dick
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Old 06-15-2004, 03:01 PM
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Juro- my shooting heads and running line should be arriving at my office any day now, so I should be all rigged up for this weekend, providing the weather cooperates. Definitely want to concentrate on casting and presentation (both with Atlantis and 9wt single hander); catching fish would be a pleasant icing on the cake. I'll bring both my Sage and Orvis 9 wt rods (the Orvis is a stiffer tip-flex for speed, the Sage has a fuller flex), and we can discuss which (if not both) to bring out with us in addition to the Atlantis. As for taping, I'll pick up a roll of that new "clear" duct tape I've seen on TV ads- should be just the thing!
See ya Saturday...
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Old 06-15-2004, 03:31 PM
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Juro,
To followup on my "5 day perspective post", it has now been about 15 outings with the Atlantis. Your bullets are well taken, especially "taping the last ferrule". The rod generates alot of speed and that tip needs to be taped. As a novice 2 hander, I did not know that.
Also, I am really pleased with the feel of the 12 wt Wulff Triangle taper clear intermediate. It not the bermuda triangle line. Wulff was able to locate me a couple of these from a distributor in England. They may have more, if others need them. They performed quite well in the cool Atlantic waters.
Cheers,
DK
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Old 06-15-2004, 03:50 PM
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Dennis -

Glad to hear you got home safely. Those clear cold water 12wt intermediates sound like a very nice match. I will contact Doug Cumming over at Wulff to get my hands on some.

Also, the Airflo 12wt clear intermediate full lines are very nice although it would be nice to have a visual mark at the junction of the head and the running line. They are easy to find as they are not discontinued. I have a feeling that the Wulff 30ft head is the nicer match, being shorter yet very well behaved when in the air.

Had another talk with Tim Rajeff and am really hot to try the striper 2-hander lines. One is a clear head with blue intermediate low-stretch running line, the other is a fast sinking DI-9 with color change, both in the Atlantis preferred grain range and 30 ft easy roll head lengths with 120ft of running line. These tapers are essentially designed to deal with high line speeds so that the loop form stays pretty even when slicing wind or waves.

I am also playing more with the Rio Scandinavian heads, after watching Simon Gawesworth rocket the line into the next time zone I was enlightened that I am just scratching on the surface of what good technique can give back to me over time, with practice.

Per my earlier post - please do like the spey dudes do and tape at least the top ferrule. It's far enough away so that you don't check it often enough, so the best approach is to tape as if you were spey casting.

Here is a search link to the topic from the Speypages Discussion Area (taping ferrules).
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Old 06-15-2004, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by DickIvers

There are many questions/problems too numerous to mention here. I think the biggest difficulty for non-spey casters is the use of the lower(left) hand. The fingers on that hand must release and regrip line as well as move the rod. Unless you play the saxaphone this is hard to do.
Dick -

Try this:

Forget bottom hand line handling for now, let's use the top hand instead. Raise the middle finger, put the line under, then close. This puts the line against three fingers. Everything else goes into the basket.

To slip a little line, ease the middle finger. To stop, grip. To shoot, flip the bone.

Let's rewind...

I. Use only the head of the line. Pick it up, lay it down. Make everything smooth and straight. Easy.

II. Then go to a false cast sequence. Pick it up, false cast a few times, watching for the loop to track straight from back to front with bare minimum power. If you went any slower, the loop would fall to the ground. Make sure the elbow of the top hand/arm is bending on the way back, and the rod does not dip down backward when you kick the rod butt out. The rod tip tracks in a slightly convex path within the same plane, out to the side slightly so the loop passes by you like a sidecar on a motorcycle, but not on the ground of course.

OK, now we'll cast. Do II again, keep things smooth and straight. On a good feeling forward cast, accelerate a little faster and pop the bent elbow straight forward while pulling the bottom of the rod inward. Keep everything in a straight line. That should give you an effortless 85-90ft.

To go beyond that point, we add (a) drift to extend the stroke and (b) a little slip of line to extend the line not to mention more acceleration and a harder stop. We'll save that for next time.

Where do you live / work?
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Old 06-15-2004, 11:17 PM
DickIvers DickIvers is offline
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Juro,

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Old 06-15-2004, 11:32 PM
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Dick,

I had trouble holding the line with the middle finger as Juro describes. Whether I misunderstood or just poor technique the line always ended up sliding under finger at the joint. I have had better success with the index and middle finger pinching the line against the cork.

I too had alot of timing problems due to years of single hander only casting techniques. I found that I had slow down alittle and to start reversing direction alittle sooner due to the lag in response from the rod's additional length. Or to say it another way the line had already straightened and unloaded the rod somewhat before I would stop and reverse direction. Watch you loop, line end and timing.

I like Juro's suggestion of using the lower hand in this manner. push out from center of body out with lower, then bring into center. I like my other hand high on the grip at about shoulder height pushing out and forward.

I found the Wulff line to be the most forgiving to cast with the Atlantis so far with my limited experience. I also spent alot of time just working out the best technique with the head always at the same location each time to establish a datum or place of reference. Later you can work on slipping more line into the backcast as you technique and timing is refined.

Hope this help give another perspective on improving your two handed casting technique.

Last edited by GregD; 06-15-2004 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 06-15-2004, 11:55 PM
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Good point Greg,

I should've said "choose a secure line holding method that works for you, I use the middle finger grip".

The ability to hold the line with the rod hand is an important step for those deeply ingrained in holding the line with the other hand while single hand casting. I meant only to suggest a method, there are many to choose from. The important thing is that the line does not slip during the power stroke, whatever method you adopt. The ability to slip line out to optimal casting length is also important. The way you grip it specifically is not.

thanks,
Juro
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Old 06-15-2004, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by DickIvers
Juro,

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I will contact another neighbor of yours who recently bought the Surf-tamer whom I owe a lesson and arrange a primer session.
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Old 07-15-2004, 08:53 PM
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Training sequence

I think you should approach a line making company and together with CND make a short video for sale that shows all of this. There's no substitute for SEEING it! As an Atlantis owner I'd be willing to pony up a few bucks to be able to get the most out of the surf tamer.
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Old 07-16-2004, 01:15 AM
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Oooooorrrrrrrrrr...

...Juro you could take a few slo-mo vids and post them here or on the speypages.

Moose, I don't have an Atlantis but I will be putting some overhead casting video up on the speypages very soon...unless of course Juro beats me to it
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Old 07-16-2004, 06:19 AM
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I typed a long reply here last night but checked for new messages and lost all the typing, my own fault. Anyway the crux of it was that working with any good distance casting video, like George Roberts video, would be a very good study toward getting the most out of the Atlantis. Most of the concepts are the same:
  • loading and unloading the rod
  • smooth acceleration along a very straight path
  • hard stop at the correct position
  • extending the length of the casting stroke for more distance
  • fault correction, etc

There are differences - line management, double hauling, and dealing with wind using a backhanded cast is very effective with a two-hander where pretty lame with a single. But the foundations are the same.

Anyway I have bribed my daughter to take some video for me early next week. It's gonna cost me!

Also, I am giving a two-handed seminar at Rod Builder's Workshop and will make sure that we get some footage.
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Old 07-16-2004, 07:06 AM
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Juro,

What is the date/details for the two-handed seminar at Rod Builders Workshop?
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