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Old 08-09-2003, 10:38 PM
flytyer flytyer is offline
Pullin' Thread
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NW Washington
Posts: 3,346
Darren,

Wrapper stands can be made very easily by cutting 1X4 boards into sections that are between 4 and 5 inches long for the base of the wrapper stand. Then sut some uprights out of the same 1X4 board that are 4 inches long. Then simply srew the uprights and bases together by drilling pilot hole in the bases (you will need 2 screws for each one), then hold the drilled bases against the edge of the uprights and mark the holes by putting a nail through the holes and making a small indention in the bottom edge of the uprights. Drill pilot holes in the uprights.

Next, cut a V-notch in the uprights on the side opposite the pilot holes. Glue some felt to the V-notches (you can get the felt at a craft store), 2 layers of felt work best. The felt keeps the rod blanks from getting all scatched up.

Then screw the bases and uprights together. (Yes, you need to drill the pilot holes or the 1X4 pieces will split). After the uprights and bases are screwed together, glue some felt dots (get tham at a hardware store they are sold as cabinet stops and made to place on kitchen cabinets to keep them from making noise when closed).

This will provide you with a very good set of rod wrapping stands. Also, I recommend that you make yourself 3 stands to better support rod sections over 24 inches long.

A rod dryer, used to keep the thread wrap finish from sagging and running, can be made by purchasing a low-RPM electric motor (5 RPM to about 20 RPM work best) screwed to a wrapping stand. These motors are easy to find (Ebay, hardware stores) and inexpensive ($7.00 to about $30.00). To finish the rod dryer, go to a hardware store and buy a threading sleeve that just fits over the ourput shaft of the motor you bought, 2 nuts and a 3/4 to 1 inch bolt that the nuts fit, a 1 3/4 diameeter PVC pipe cap, a 3/8 inch thumb srews (you need 3 of these), and 3 vinyl bolt covers to cover the end of the thumb screws (these keep the rod from getting scratched and marred). Glue the threaded sleeve to the motor shaft with rod ferrule cement or 5-minute epoxy. After the glue is set up (it takes about 30 seconds with ferrule cement) or hardened (about 30 minutes with 5-minute epoxy), you can mount the chuck (made with the PVC pipe cap and thumb screws) to the threqaded sleeve with the bolt.

The chuck is made by drilling a hole the diameter of the bolt you needed for the threaded sleeve in the center of the PVC pipe cap. You also need to drill 3 holes (placed so that each one is 1/3 of the way around the cap from the previous one) in the side of the PVC pipe cap that are slightly smaller than 3/8 inch thumb screws, which will be screwed into these holes. Assemble the chuck by screwing the 3 thumb screws into the cap and place the vinyl screw covers over the threaded ends of the thumb srews.

After this put the bolt through the center of the PVC cap, place nut on the bolt and tighten up to the cap. Last place the secone nut on the bolt and screw the bolt into the threaded sleeve you have glued to the output shaft of the motor. Run the second nut up tight to the threaded sleeve to hold everything good, and solid and your dryer is finished.
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