Use a smaller neck feather for the wings, it will have a marked improvement in the lay of the wing and the streamlined effect a spey fly should have. A smaller feather (the small ones at the very top of the neck are best) will help you to produce a smaller head because the stem is finer. Also, the wing should be shorter, gbarely longer than the body of the fly.
An another tip is to strip off half of the teal feather before tying it in. this allows you to make two or three full turns of the teal without having too much of it. This had the added bonus of having less bulk at the tie off point of the teal; thus, also helping to produce a smaller head.
A floss with a more true orange color should be used, it looks like you used "flame orange". The best floss I have found for this fly is UNI Orange Strecth Nylon.
The body should start in front of the hook point on a spey fly. If you ever get the chance to see a Glasso tied fly or see a copy of Knox's book "Autumns on the Spey", you will readily see that the tags and bodies are started in front of the hook point by about the with of the barb. This allows you to have the classic "hump-shaped wing" of the spey fly. It was Dee flies that started the bodies above the hook point.
Lastly, the ribbing was changed by Glasso in the mid-60's to simply 5 turns of medium oval silver tinsel with no flat tinsel beside it.
Overall, this is not a bad fly. You are well on the way to tying very nice speys. Glad to see you used the nickel Aleck Jackson Spey Hook on it. Not needing to tie in an underbody of silver tinsel makes tying the fly easier and quicker without detracting from it at all.