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Old 09-18-2002, 02:00 PM
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Philster Philster is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Snoqualmie, Skykomish
Posts: 473
"Here’s what I learned, maybe it will help someone else land one on the fly:
The fish have been biting best between 7 and 8am.
Watch the knots, everything needs to be perfect to withstand the stresses placed on the line.
I would not recommend using a 10wt or a reel that does not have anti-reverse and a damn good drag, you may be injured. "

Ha! It's funny, everytime you get into tuna, you learn something! The following is all personal opinion so feel free to disagree. With Mexico Yellowfin, I've learned that up to about 15 to 20 lbs. a ten weight can work. Up to about 35, a 12 weight can work. Over 35 lbs I take out the 14 wt. or even better, I hook up on one, land it or lose it, and go find something else to catch I realize your Blues get much bigger

Knots are important, but you can usually do without a shock leaders on 10 and 12 wt. fish. 16 lb fluoro works great, and 13 lb is perfect for what we call "footballs" on the West Coast. Makes life easier!

Anti-reverse may work for some, but they have one major flaw with tuna IMO. When the tuna is running they're great, but when it comes down to pumping the fish up from ye olde death spiral, an A/R gives me fits! If I put the drag way up, even a 3 second lunge from the tuna can either pop you off, or pop the rod! I'd rather leave the drag alone and lock down on a direct drive reel. The ability to pump a fish up is what seperates the 20 to 45 minute tuna fight from the 2 hour one. If your fingers are critical to your livelyhood (musician, surgeon, etc.) and you can't afford a broken finger, go for it. Otherwise, you've probably learned what you need to know about using a direct drive safely on other saltwater fish. If you haven't... Well, get a Pate Marlin with A/R, or fish for something else until you have learned!
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