Don't have a lot of experience with shooting heads, but here's my 2 cents. First, you know that you don't want to extend much past the shooting portion beyond the rod tip for a cast, right? To make a good cast, wait until you get the shooting head about 5-10 ft past the rod tip then shoot the rest of the line. This should keep false casts to a minimum and give less chances for tailing loops.
Second, since the shooting head is heavier than a standard floater, you may be altering your casting motion to keep it in the air and off the water/ground behind you. If you drop your hand during the forward cast the rod tip travels in a straight line. This means that the line will travel in a straight path and collide with itself. Instead, keep the backcast low and merely turn your thumb down (parallel to the water) when you finish the cast. This should 'duck' the rod tip under the line and form a normal loop, with the line smoothly traveling over itself, instead of colliding and making tailing loops.
Finally, what length, type leader are you using. Shooting heads travel faster than floaters (more inertia) and too short a leader could cause too much energy to transfer to the fly which might cause it to 'bounce' at the end of the cast. This is particularly true with a heavier, sinking fly. If this is happening, you can open you loop to keep the fly traveling around a curve, instead of zipping to a halt at the end of a tight loop. Also, you can use a longer leader that disipates energy better.
Hope this helps.