Sure Dave, sorry if I was vague. The thing about finishing clousers is that the material has to somehow cope with the presence of dumbbell eyes in the 'red zone'. There are two schools of thought - tie the eyes on first, or tie the eyes on near the end. I've done both and they both work fine as long as (1) you left an adequate "snout" space between the eye and the hookeye and (b) you use zap-a-gap to set the eyes on the threads if you tie eyes in over the thread. In fact it's not a bad idea to set the eyes with it in either case.
But anyway, what I meant by criss-crossing is the way the thread wraps over the materials as they go over the eye. This is more important on the topside of the fly than the bottom. As you probably know, the material (say angel hair in this case) lays over the 'vee' between the eyes along the hook shaft. The thread then crosses over in a "madam X" style to bind the material in place and pull it into the 'vee'.
Wrap normally on both sides of the eyes, you can even wrap under the eyes like a button on a shirt - just make sure you finish it toward the hook eye.
! On the lower side, I usually tie the material with a few turns between the eyes and the bend, pulling the material tight to the shaft of the hook
! On the topside, I usually criss-cross the angel hair or polar flash so that it almost comes straight back from the high point of the eyes, using minimal wraps and not cinching the material down on the bend side to preserve the look of the sand eel's back. I use a lot of wraps on the forward side (the 'snout') and finish the whole thing with zap-a-gap or head cement (but I feel the zap penetrates better).
The angel hair lets you get away with only a few wraps of thread to lay right but it does get snarled after 25-50 fish. Polar fiber snarls less but fouls more.
For no-flash situations (mid-summer flats, etc) I use a few strands of floashabou inside top and bottom layers of transparent synthetic material.
Maybe we should do a mid-season tying party?