Test Pike Patterns
These are test patterns for Crease style Pike patterns.
They are about 4 inches long in the body.
Hopefully you can enlarge the image to get a proper perspective.
I hope you tied up a bunch of those, because old Esox is gonna go after those like they're the last cookies in the jar. :hehe:
Let me know if you need a U.S. counter part to do some field testing. ;)
Trying to get a better pic.
One more Test
These creatures are what you do when it's -22C with a wind chill of up to -40C.
I wish I could join you folks for the Pike Clave, but I'll just wait till our season opens on May 8.
I would appreciate field testing, preferably in rivers since I exclusively do lakes. Pike rivers for me are not close by, but some great lakes are within an hour drive to get at them toothy critters.
Send me an Email with your address and I'll send you some samples to test.
Pete, the flys look good.
Pete, that's a generous offer....I'll shoot you an e-mail. I plan to try them on the CT River.
And don't worry too much about not being able to make the clave....you might have to wait a bit longer for your season, but I'm sure the quality of the fishery is much higher than ours.
Here are detailed instructions for making these flies, provided by Pete and also available in the "Pike Crease flies" thread.
Body: Craft foam. I tried pink, yellow, and white. I prefer the white so far.
Shell: Iridescent wrapping paper. I tried various metallic wrapping papers but they are too opaque and donít seem to stick well to the foam body.
Color: Various permanent markers.
Hook: TMC 511S size 2/0
Tail: Assorted synthetic fiber with flashy materials
Underbody: Magik Glitter glue
1. Make a paper pattern
2. Mark off several body shapes on the foam.
3. Tape over the shapes with carpet tape. This stuff is a very fine film of sticky material, also known as 2-way tape. The tape is only 2 inches wide and you need 2X width to cover the fly body, or 3X depending on which orientation you use, length or width. Make sure to put one strip on at a time, that is place it on the foam and remove the cover tape before placing the next strip.
4. Cut out some iridescent shell and carefully place it on the body. If you want a variation on the body, just crinkle the paper in your hands, then apply it.
5. Rough cut each body shape, then detail cut each one.
6. Paint the shell with the markers, starting with the top line and then the lateral line, blending as you go along.
7. After the marker coloration is dry, bend the shell into a crease and hold for a few minutes with wooden clothes pins. I did three at a time. I colored the inside of the shell, at the front end, about one quarter from the face towards the tail rather than leaving it white.
8. Prepare the tail. I made the tails very sparse due to the teeth foul-ups common with pike. Just take a little bit of flash and a little bit of hair, wrap it with tying thread about one quarter inch and put it aside. This really helps when finishing the fly.
9. Open up the creased shell, apply cryo glue around the edges and in the middle part where the tail and hook will go. The tail is not tied onto the hook.
10. Place the tail into the crease, close it, and hold it with two clothes pins.
11. Place the hook inside and then hold it with three or more clothes pins. I leave the mouth open to create more water disturbance and make the fly swim more erratically.
12. After the fly glue is dry, about 30 minutes, place the tape eyes on and apply a fine bead of Sparkle glue to the foam section of the underfly. This glue will not stay on if applied to the body, and takes a long time to fully dry.
13. I used some poly-urethane clear varnish to overcoat the fly, two coats.
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