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-   -   PI High Tide for a change manana (http://www.flyfishingforum.com/flytalk4/showthread.php?t=2876)

Lefty 05-25-2000 07:05 PM

PI High Tide for a change manana
 
Anyone playing hookey or going in late tommorrow to fish PI in the am high tide? Probably not, but condemplating a first light Joppa flats cruise in the ol 14'.

TerryW

juro 05-26-2000 01:44 PM

RE:PI High Tide for a change manana
 
Did ya do it? Sorry I wish I checked the board last night. I might have defected for that!

Lefty 05-26-2000 02:06 PM

RE:PI High Tide for a change manana
 
No, I opted to bide my time for a better plan this weekend conspired over the phone.
Glad too, the wind was up by 7:00 am. Instead I tied up a couple of your "Deep Sand Eel" clousers at my bench. I will report on their success after the weekend trip. I lossed the Deep Sand Eel you tied for me (Bass River) on the PI jetty.
When tying: Definately was a little confused about eye placement. If the dumbell eye goes inside the hook bend, won't it turn the point down into the sand and lead to snags?

TerryW

juro 05-26-2000 02:37 PM

RE:PI High Tide for a change manana
 
The eye does not go inside the hook bend... did I somehow say that in the post? (I'll go look) It goes just like we tied at your clave... standard clouser style.

0) tie in the eye if you want before starting, space it so there is a nice snout extension between the weighted eyes and hookeye. Use realeyes with the yellow sticker eyes for best results. The concave eye sockets prevent damage to the eyes, I have some that are a few years old with half the materials but the eyes are perfect. No coating required.

Use white thread or clear thread.

a) tie in a few strands of chartreuse flashabou at the bend

b) tie in a thin core of white bucktail under it (while point is UP, otherwise "over it"). I like to wrap the shank toward the eye over the bucktail at this point to give it a nice body underwrap of white.

c) Tie in transparent synthetic light green, chartruese or yellow fibers from point just behind the eyes, split over hook bend or use two sections and brace the hook without creating a cleaved seam. This is tied in a ways back from the eyes to keep things simple. Before you tie, pull the fibers from the center with your fingers to give it that natural "layered to a point" look. Oh yeah put a few more strands of chartruese flashabou in the fibers for highlights. Go longer than the white bucktail core, big stripers like big sand eels. Mine are like 4-6" sometimes 8" long. The real eyes come in different sizes, match accordingly but don't make them huge like a clouser - the material and weight should balance out for better casting. It takes a lot of material to balance out a weighted eye fly.

d) tie in the clear/white synthetic fibers on the bottom and criss-cross the thread over the nape of the dumbell eyes to make it appear like it comes out naturally. You can layer the stuff for long patterns, one layer between the eyes and bend, another criss-crossed into the dumbell, whatever. My fly tying is like evolution, the patterns mutate and whatever works I keep http://216.71.206.188/images/flytalk/Wilk.gif

e) The topping is key - Use either rainbow angel hair criss-crossed into the dumbbell and split over the hook -or- sand eel green polar flash, very good for deep water use like Billingsgate or the ocean beaches. I've also used flashabou but it is not durable. Angel hair holds it's shape and even after getting totally trashed you can form it with the fingers. Fish certainly love it.

You can vary the opacity with the materials you choose. Mid-summer flats fishing waws always better for me with light, clear sand eels... but large ones.

Good luck, be back later

fliboy 05-27-2000 06:21 AM

RE:PI High Tide for a change manana
 
Hi Juro - having a hard time trying to figure out when you are describing "criss-crossing" the material. Can you elaborate a little more so I can understand this part of the process.

Thanks

Dave

juro 05-27-2000 07:32 AM

RE:PI High Tide for a change manana
 
Sure Dave, sorry if I was vague. The thing about finishing clousers is that the material has to somehow cope with the presence of dumbbell eyes in the 'red zone'. There are two schools of thought - tie the eyes on first, or tie the eyes on near the end. I've done both and they both work fine as long as (1) you left an adequate "snout" space between the eye and the hookeye and (b) you use zap-a-gap to set the eyes on the threads if you tie eyes in over the thread. In fact it's not a bad idea to set the eyes with it in either case.

But anyway, what I meant by criss-crossing is the way the thread wraps over the materials as they go over the eye. This is more important on the topside of the fly than the bottom. As you probably know, the material (say angel hair in this case) lays over the 'vee' between the eyes along the hook shaft. The thread then crosses over in a "madam X" style to bind the material in place and pull it into the 'vee'.

http://flyfishingforum.com/articles/...riss-cross.jpg

Wrap normally on both sides of the eyes, you can even wrap under the eyes like a button on a shirt - just make sure you finish it toward the hook eye.

! On the lower side, I usually tie the material with a few turns between the eyes and the bend, pulling the material tight to the shaft of the hook

! On the topside, I usually criss-cross the angel hair or polar flash so that it almost comes straight back from the high point of the eyes, using minimal wraps and not cinching the material down on the bend side to preserve the look of the sand eel's back. I use a lot of wraps on the forward side (the 'snout') and finish the whole thing with zap-a-gap or head cement (but I feel the zap penetrates better).

The angel hair lets you get away with only a few wraps of thread to lay right but it does get snarled after 25-50 fish. Polar fiber snarls less but fouls more.

For no-flash situations (mid-summer flats, etc) I use a few strands of floashabou inside top and bottom layers of transparent synthetic material.

Maybe we should do a mid-season tying party?


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