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-   -   Flats sunglasses? (http://www.flyfishingforum.com/flytalk4/showthread.php?t=24502)

DaisyChain 12-26-2006 01:36 PM

Flats sunglasses?
 
Anyone here have any recommendations for a nice pair of flats sunglasses - primarily for sighting bones? Cost is a consideration but definitely willing to trade $$ for quality as seeing these fish is my biggest problem!

Thanks,

DC

chromer 12-26-2006 01:41 PM

Maui Jim put out a new high-contrast copper lens last year and i could see fish better than ever, worked great when i got back to fish summer steelhead too. 150 bucks and well worth it.

hmaadd 12-26-2006 02:29 PM

I just got some smith action optics fishbones. Cleerwater copper lenses photochromic. I can see much deeper and clearer with these than my costa del mar copper lenses. I don't think they give the eye protection that the costas do but I bought them just for sight fishing in all conditions. I can see thru water better than ever with these lenses. They came highly recomended from different fly shop owners that sell maui's costas and smith.

Mainer 12-26-2006 02:32 PM

I have had great success with Action Optics Clearwater Copper lens wrap-around sunglasses. The guides I know in the Bahamas all prefer them and ask me to bring them a pair when I go down there. A couple of guides I know down there also like Ocean Wave glasses. I have both, but I never use the Ocean Waves because using the Action Optics I can often spot fish at really long distances (if conditions are right).

DaisyChain 12-26-2006 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mainer
I have had great success with Action Optics Clearwater Copper lens wrap-around sunglasses. The guides I know in the Bahamas all prefer them and ask me to bring them a pair when I go down there. A couple of guides I know down there also like Ocean Wave glasses. I have both, but I never use the Ocean Waves because using the Action Optics I can often spot fish at really long distances (if conditions are right).

Would the wraparound you're describing be the "fishbone" design? Thanks for your help!

DC

Swalt 12-26-2006 06:18 PM

I like the Action Optics clear water copper also but because I have to get a heavy precription I can't get a lens that has a lot of cuve in it. I buy side shields to block out the glare and they work well. I will also keep a pair of brown lensed caccoons hanging around my neck. They are pretty cheap but good sunglasses.
The advantage there is if its really bright I can put them over the Action Optics. The clear water copper is good for most light but its not a heavy dark tint and I like something darker when really bright. I can also just wear them over my regular glasses if I choose. Sometimes I will try different combinations when I am on a flat to see which seems to be working the best for me.

Paxton 12-26-2006 08:14 PM

DC....just to confuse you more, I have Costas in standard grey and love them. The optometrist I got them from was very knowledgeable and said that "color of the lenses are personal preference...the key factor is getting either wrap arounds or shielded sides ....because regardless of color, back and side lighting is what negatively influences the polarization effect and causes glare".
I have a heavy prescription as well....but if you got to someone who hand machine cuts the lenses as opposed to computerized cutting...there will be no distortion. I don't ...and I have 20/300 vision without glasses.
I went for eye protection re color, side and back light and the wrap around style also cuts the drying effect on eyes by the wind.
Ron

teflon_jones 12-26-2006 09:06 PM

I used a pair of $80 Eddie Bauer sunglasses for years with great success for many species of fish including bones. They were polarized and had glass lenses, which is really tough to find for under $100.

I lost them recently and replaced them with a set of $170 polarized/glass lensed Ray Bans. I went to the local Sunglass Hut to find the pair I wanted, then went to eBay and bought them for $120 including shipping. :)

Mainer 12-27-2006 05:48 AM

DC,

I don't think I know what the "fishbone" design is. Wrap-around design matters both to cut out side glare and to minimize any wind in your eyes.

Vic

hmaadd 12-27-2006 06:09 AM

Fishbones are a wraparound design. They have lenses cut into the side of the frames. Very good at keeping out wind and glare.

rogcon 12-27-2006 11:28 AM

Ocean Waves ; Boston w/ Backwater Green lenses. MSRP = $170; can find on net for ~ $130.

DaisyChain 12-27-2006 02:59 PM

I really appreciate all of the responses! Quick question, I've got a pair of Orvis HVO wraps amber lens that I wear while fishing freshwater streams and rivers in the Northeast. It seems to me that amber/copper is the recommended lens color, so would these work well enough?

juro 12-27-2006 03:43 PM

Everyone's eyes are different but for my retinas high quality grey lenses provide the best color fidelity while the ambers are known to enhance contrast.

I can't see taillights when I wear amber so to keep my insurance down I wear grey or copper lenses most of the time.

I found that the grey gives me color differentiation which sometimes is the only thing that clues me in (other than motion) where the copper are better during low light and when contrast are key.

Successful sight fishing is much more than just eyes. Seeing is just the tip of the iceberg so don't leave out the mountain of logic, luck and spidey sense that brings you to stake out a spot with conviction.

arubaman 12-27-2006 04:45 PM

as I originate my watersports in the wavesurfing and bodyboarding scene I got to know a brand called "black fly", a very nice name, also for the flyfisherman.
They work perfect, are not to expensive and look a little modern.
Itīs "my way or the fly way", and itīs "me, myself and fly"....

teflon_jones 12-27-2006 09:10 PM

Like Juro said, everybody's eyes are different, but in general, here's some good info I borrowed from another website:

� Gray or green-tinted: Offer the least amount of color distortion; good for all-purpose use and clear days.
� Amber and orange: Block blue light, offering a brighter view on cloudy, hazy, or foggy days.
� Gold and yellow: Add contrast; best in flat and dim-light situations.
� Brown: Best for enhancing depth perception.
� Rose: Has the highest contrast and best low-light image resolution.
� Mirrored: Reduces the amount of light that reaches the eyes; good at high altitudes.
� Gradient: Shaded from top to bottom. (A double-gradient lens is dark at the top and bottom, and lighter in the middle.) Driving glasses are often gradated so that you can see the dashboard clearly.
� Photochromic: Automatically darkens and lightens as light conditions change. Photochromic (transitional) lenses won't get very dark, and take some time to adjust to changes in light. Heat also hinders the photochromic (transitional) lenses from getting dark.

Tip: Darker doesn't necessarily mean better. The darker the lenses, the more visible light they block. Brighter conditions demand darker lenses. It's important to keep in mind where you'll be wearing them most. Sunglasses designed for mountain climbing, for example, generally have lenses too dark for everyday wear.


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