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juro 10-08-2003 05:16 PM

Stripping Basket Cones... tubular dude
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In my quest for simplicity and function, not to mention price - the search for a cone to keep line in order in the basket seems to have come to an end, or at least until the field test proves otherwise.

I recently tested the concept of tubes cut at a sharp angle placed on the bottom of the basket and the results were phenomenal. Thus I went out and picked up some plastic durable tubing to take the theory to phase II.

The cones are simply angular cuts of tubing (or solid cylinder but why not hollow) positioned so that:

1) the straight side faces the middle of the basket

2) all slopes angle outward from the center

3) minimal area remains uncut only at the base of the frustum (there's that word again)

juro 10-08-2003 05:23 PM

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I chose the tailpiece to pvc kitchen drain, it's a thinwall pipe that yields 8 cones for approx $3.

I picked up dishpans at about the same price at a large department store and used web belts I already had. I used a razor knife to remove the rim on the beer belly side and it conforms to the gut nicely. Only the rubbermaid and Iris brand plastics are smooth cutting, other brands are brittle and fracture when cutting the rim off or cutting web belt slots. Go with the quality tubs.

The adhesive was aquaseal - I tried devcon plastic weld and marine goop, both failed. I wouldn't bother with anything less although PVC glue might do the trick.

I deburred and sanded the edges quickly before attaching. On the recent prototype I used 8 cones. I only used four for these standard rubbermaid pans because I think four will work well enough.

The design pushes loops away from the center while some percentage falls into the middle. They get randomly spread out into the five regions (4 sides and center) and when pulled tend to gravitate toward the center where all the slopes direct the line. The shooting of line was fantastic in the gen I prototype. We'll see how this one works, if it proves out I will go to using 8 in a larger basket for use with the two-handed rods (they shoot a LOT of running line).

If these prove out then I will use a double snap system to allow removal of the basket without removal of the belt as discussed earlier.

I will report on my second field test FWIW...

juro 10-08-2003 05:26 PM

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Orvis eat your heart out! :p

JimW 10-08-2003 06:22 PM

Looking good. I think your on to something with the angles. Very cool.

juro 10-12-2003 10:56 AM

OK -

The design works great, just as good as any expensive cone system anyway.

Two things:

- Instead of using just four, might as well blow the other $1.50 and use all eight. Better yet...

- Cut into 6 taller "cones" and use the rubbermaid 17 quart bucket. The standard 12 quart is probably too shallow as the 8th cuts were tall as it was in there. As one changes the diameter of the cut tubes, the dynamics of the cones change as well. Probably a little room for experimentation there.

Since the two-hander works out with 60-70 feet of running line behind the 30 ft head the 17 qt bucket is a much better solution than the common little rubbermaid 12 qt. The 17qt has a big lip edge and will require more surgery than the light-weight cousin but it's depth makes it a much better basket for handling lots of line.

Choosing the right basin is important, most brands are too brittle and crack when working the holes and removing the inside rolled-over lip. Rubbermaid cuts very nicely without cracking, Iris products are also made of the slice-able stuff.

Using a dremel bit makes a very nice slotted hole for the web belt.

I tried a translucent plastic and it really is much safer when walking on rocks, although I have yet to find it in a material that does not crack when cutting. It can be tinted and still let you see the next step on the rocks.

Lucite tubes can be cut to keep the cones clear as well, once the proper basin is found.

Again, the only adhesive I found to work so far was aquaseal. I did not try PVC cement yet.

All in all it's been a very affordable, easy and lightweight solution to the age-old dillema and paves the way for the development of the more serious basket needed for handling entire fly lines and 120 foot shooting lines with the two-hander.

kjackson 10-14-2003 04:47 PM

How does this work in a bigger basket for a boat? I'm constantly tangling fly line in the tiller, depthfinder, my feet, the oar lock, baitcasting reel, lunch, coffee cup and so on.

I've tried commercial stripping baskets, and they're better than nothing, most of the time, but something I could set on a seat or tank might be a better idea.

Tried similar baskets in that application? Since part of my fishing is done at anchor on a pretty stiff tide, I'll be fishing from the stern of the boat and swinging line.

If this isn't going to work well, any suggestions on what would work better?



juro 10-14-2003 06:13 PM

A basket works well on a boat but IMHO the visibility thing pops up again. You need to see your way around on deck.

Also, there are those large barrel style line and rod 'baskets' that would probably work well although I haven't tried them myself they are popular on boats.

They sell spring-frame popup baskets (mesh hampers, vinyl yard barrels) that fold completely flat and pop up to similar dimensions as the barrels used on boats but lightweight and removable. I would imagine you could attach it to snaps on the stern deck and pop it up when fishing, fold it flat when not. Might be worth a try.

JimW 10-15-2003 06:57 AM

The boat think was killing me for most of the season. It got to the point of forcing me over to spin gear since I could not safely run after the fish with line all over the deck. Anyone who has fished on a boat knows the fly line will tangle on the most unlikely objects at the worst possible time.

I've gone to a basket I got at Wally world, I'll try to get some pics and post directions in another thread. It works great.

John Desjardins 10-15-2003 08:23 AM

Juro, you might find a good deal on the tubing if you look at whats used for central vacuum cleaners. The ones I've seen are lighter than the schedule 40 stuff used for plumbing.

Funny you guys should be talking about tangling on a boat. Lately I've started to wear one in freshwater for that reason. The transparent tray would be usefull there also.

juro 11-07-2003 03:32 PM

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Well, here's the summary:

1) frustums of cylinders are easy, cheap and very effective for the purpose

2) four works but eight is twice as good; no need to skimp at the $2 price tag - use eight per basket

3) aquaseal is the best adhesive I found, although 'plastic surgery' appears to be another worth testing out

4) Flattening the tips of the cones is a consideration for those who tend to hit their knuckles on cones. I don't have that problem because of the way I strip retrieve, but I could see how that would occur and it's worth thinking about.

Case closed.

RDJ 11-09-2003 04:00 PM

The cones look good. I must be cheap, though. I used .090 in. weed eater line and put a 3 in piece every 2 in. into, it looks like the same plastic pan. Take a lighter and melt the end of a 3-1/2 in. piece of weed eater line, press it flat ,push it through bottom of pan. when all are in place, take 15 min. epoxy and secure them to the pan from both sides. A one dollar pan several years ago and still going, going, going.

jared 11-11-2003 08:22 AM

does this mean you're not placing the "cone order" we talked about??


juro 11-11-2003 09:19 AM

No, will still do that. In fact I'll do it this week...

sean 11-20-2003 02:01 PM

Was at Fred Meyer last night (do you guys have those back east?) and pick up a product by Loctite called Xtreme repair adhesive and tried it out last night. It is flexible goop that looks like it is going to work. Can pick up the tub and shake it around by the frustum and it aint coming loose. Only cost $3.99 for a tube of it but I will warn you it is pretty noxious...

Now where can I get a CND sticker....

FrenchCreek 11-20-2003 04:23 PM

OK Juro,

Make me a stripping basket and that way I can add to my inventory of "left at the Cape" stuff!
Of course the Logo is "de rigueur"
Just let me know the cost, as you know, I'm in no rush for it so this will give you lots of tiem to get it ready. I'll even accept it as a prototype as yet to be field tested by an international client!

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