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-   -   Rod chuck (http://www.flyfishingforum.com/flytalk4/showthread.php?t=10818)

flyfisha1 04-20-2003 02:47 PM

Rod chuck
 
I've been building a list of "stuff" needed for a few rods, and have been wanting to buy one of those fancy rod-holding chucks that screw down onto a 0.25" motor shaft; trouble is, I can't bring myself to spend $35 for something so "brainless". I had an idea: take a pair of large rubber stoppers with the same OD, but with the ID of one being slightly smaller than 0.25" and the ID of the other small enough to tightly grip the blank. Glue these back to back, slip the end of the blank into hole in the appropriate stopper, slip the motor shaft into the other stopper, and voila, self-gripping rod chuck. This way, I could make a set to hold every diameter of the blanks needed for a few bucks. I should imagine that the gripping power would be plenty for the simple task of drying the blank sections.
Has this idea come up before? Anyone tried this?

John Desjardins 04-20-2003 09:02 PM

Chris, Are you talking about the common black laboratory stopper. They are a pain to accurately machine to shape unless you freeze them. Got a -80 C freezer in the lab at work? The common freezer is not cold enough.

flyfisha1 04-21-2003 06:15 AM

Hey there John,
Yes, lab stoppers are what I was referring to, but I wasn't really planning on having to machine them... Iíll have a look through a few industrial supply catalogs this morning and see if I can find some stoppers with different IDs; that would solve the problem of having to drill them out, which Iím sure could potentially tear them if not frozen as you suggest. These things should be cheap, Iím thinking no more than $0.25 each.

JimW 04-21-2003 07:35 AM

Chris,
Sounds like your on to something, let us know how it works. Another way to aproach retaining the blank is a tapered cone. Just put it inside the blank and wrap some masking tape around it and your done.

John Desjardins 04-21-2003 08:11 AM

Chris try Tygon tubing.

flyfisha1 04-21-2003 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by John Desjardins
Chris try Tygon tubing.
Not a bad idea; we have a few hundred feet of it at the office.

Nate Bailey 04-21-2003 11:50 PM

get A 1/4" rod and wrap masking tape around it until it fits snugly in the blank wa law a fit all arbor that has always worked for me...........Nate

flytyer 04-22-2003 01:52 AM

You can also use a PVC pipe cap of 1 1/2" or 2" diameter, drill a 1/4" hole in the center and epoxy it to the shaft with 5-minute epoxy (or hot-melt ferrule cement), drill three hole in the side of it and put thumb-screw bolts in them with a nut on both sides of the PVC cap so that they can be adjusted to grip the rod. Don't forget to did the ends of the bolts in liquid vinyl to keep them from marring the rod.

Cheap and easy solution for all but heavy duty grip forming.

flyfisha1 04-22-2003 06:07 AM

Flytyer - Yes, I have tried that, however I find that the thumbscrews don't grip the rod well even when coated with vinyl. I'd be more inclined to stretch rubber-bands across the thumbscrews and use them to hold the blank, but I just figured that a solid grip 360 degrees around the blank with soft rubber would do the trick. Haven't had a chance to look for stoppers yet, but will do so in the next few days.

flyfisha1 05-11-2003 08:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Figured it was time I posted a shot of this "hi-tech" device... seen here are two chucks; one for the larger-diameter blank sections, the other for smaller diameter sections. The chucks hold onto the drive shaft and blank via friction, and leave no marks. The best thing is, I found a few stoppers (pre-drilled) sitting around in a box in our storage area, so the chucks were free...

I have come to a few conculsions while using this chuck and building this rod...

1. The chuck works very well, simply support the blank section somewhere around the midpoint with some object of the same height as the bottom of the drive shaft with respect to the working surface (I used a spare display box with a sock covering it to ensure that the blank didn't get scratched). The blanks never slipped once, and the resulting finish was very nice... speaking of...
2. I'm going back to 2-part finishes... used Perma-Gloss on this one, worked okay, but takes 5 or more coats to get a smooth, glossy finish. I have patience, but this is too much... Also, with all those fumes, I was practically seeing "pink elephants on parade"...
3. I will never again build a 7-piece fly rod... neat, but what a pain to wrap. :tsk_tsk: Having said that, I can't wait to get this 6-wt. out on the water (or at the least, the lawn) for a practice session; I think it will cast like a cannon.

flytyer 05-13-2003 11:12 PM

Flyfisha1,

You found out why I quit using Perma Gloss many years ago. It is a real pain to put the 5 or more coats on the rod when you have to allow 4 to 6 hours between coats. I have been using Flex Coat's Lite formula since it became available. Yes, it takes two coats with it to get a fine finish, but the end result is one that has far more depth to the finish that the thicker 2-part finishes.

Just remember to mix two smaller batches of it: one for the top section and another one for the butt section to keep in from getting too thick from setting up as you apply it. Then the next day do the same thing one more time. The resulting finish is impressive, and worth the extra day to achieve it.


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