Recipe for Bonecrusher, Simram?
I'm headed down to the bahamas on saturday, and I'm currently in the midst of my usual last minute tying frenzy. I've tied plenty of the 'staples', and now I'm looking for a few new patterns to round out the collection.
I've heard good things about both the Bonecrusher and the Simram, but I can't seem to find much info on either of them.
A search of the archives here didn't turn up anything, so I'm hoping someone out there might have some info on these patterns.
Check your email. I couldn't attach the document here.
And if you don't have time to tie 'em I can give you some. Hell I'll give you a whole box of flies.
I did some more searching and found out that the originator of the bonecrusher-Larry Dahlberg, actually has a web page with a message board. I posted my question about the fly there and got this response via email from the man himself:
Actually the bonecrusher is more of a concept than a pattern.
I got the idea while watching bones struggle to locate flies after they’d come to rest on the bottom, only to pick them up again when they moved, then lose them again when they stopped.
I was reminded of the first plastic worms, which sank and laid flat on the bottom versus the later creation of the floating worm. Fisherman quickly learned that a floating worm with lead weight at its nose was visible to the fish from a greater distance and also easier to pick up. It all but replaced all other designs.
The vertical profile can be applied to any combination of fur and feathers. It is my experience that any pattern tied this way catches more bones and permit than standard designs.
I use a Gamakatsu 15R hook-size six to as big as I can get away with.
**(optional) bend hook shank appx 1/8” behind eye on size 4 hook at 15 degrees toward point.)
Secure lead eyes that are wide enough and heavy enough to keep hook upright about 1/8” behind hook eye.. Do not use so much lead it scares the fish. Best to have range to fish various depths and maintain desired sink speed. Place eyes on hook so point rides up. Best to locate hook underside of eyes and just ahead of bend (if you bent the hook) for stability.
Make body of Flashabou Dubbing with brass wire dubbing loop from rear of fly. Start midway in bend of hook.
Tie in 4 strands of fluorescent tipped Flashabou Legs (they are buoyant) Cut brightly colored tips so they are no longer than 1/4”. Secure to hook leaving legs 1-2” long depending on size of fly so two point forward and two point backward.
Use wing made of either wool of Fuzzy Fiber just slightly shorter than legs.
Tie facing forward.
Wrap legs and wing with thread (like a parachute style dryfly) so they stand vertical.
It’s usually best to match the fly to the bottom color.
It really works. Try it in a glass. Then try it in the ocean.
In testing it I have let it lie motionless where I knew bones would swim by and watched them go out of their way 6 feet to pick it up, even though it was absolutely motionless the entire time! I could not repeat that with any of the other flies I tried, and you can believe me that I tried ever tried and true traditional.
The bonecrusher is not so much a pattern as it is a different fuselage option.
Good luck, hope this helps. I’m really busy for the next few months, but maybe I can post some photos at a later date if this info is insufficient.
I found a pic of the a fly at orvis.com in their fly catalog, but it doesn't really look much like he's describing...
picture, found on the internet:
That wing looks a lot like arctic fox ....
I consider wing mobility another design factor in bonefish flies along with size, sink rate and color (not necessarilly in that order).
Matt, have a great trip, take lots of pics and post a report when you get back ;)
First of all have a great time. Next, make sure you have plenty of #2, 4 gotchas in different weights with a cream or light tan zonker wing. That was the guides preference everyday I was there earlier this month.
I also had good luck with these two. The first is called a Wellington and was shown to me by harry Koons this past winter.
34007 #2 / 4
tuft of orange zonker fur as an egg sac at the bottom bend of the hook
two 4" long pieces black crystal flash
3-4 1" long pieces rainbow crystal flash
two 2" long pieces white rubber 'legs' tipped with red marker
tie on eyes, clouser style (vary size/weight to suit the depths you expect to fish)
Wrap shank with pearl body braid to back of eyes
Pink v-rib in open spiral over the body braid (optional)
light tan zonker (fur only, no hide) in 4 small bunches beginning from behind the eyes
pink thread for head
Then I tried a variation on that idea which substituted a dubbed body that I wrapped arounnd the eyes. I found this worked well in very shallow water as it landed much lighter. try it with some #8 brass bead chain eyes ( hardware store ) and a pair of extended mono stalk eyes sticking out from the back.
Here's the Orvis pattern for that image you posted. Good luck!
Name Bone Crusher
Popular sizes 04, 06
Hook Type Pre-sharpened stainless
Thread White 3/0
Body Twisted Gold Krystal Flash, Floss, or Flashabou
Ribbing Optional: The body can be overwrapped with clear mono. ( I used pink ribbing and/ or clear over pink body wrap)
Wing Tan calf tail
Legs Mottled Living Rubber or Sili Legs ( I made a couple with orange tipped sili-legs)
Head Bead Chain eyes with Pearl Ice Chenile, Estaz, or Krystal Chenile
this shrimp pattern worked well and is a very quiet landing fly.
Have you ever used this shrimp pattern of Cape Cod?
THE SIM RAM IS TIED BY PUTTING ABOUT 6-8 STRANDS OF FLASH OFF THE BACK OF HOOK SHANK HALFWAY DOWN BEND THEN ANOTHER 6-8 STRANDS WRAP UP HOOK BEND TO ABOUT TOP OF SHANK JUST BEFORE HOOK BEND WRAP FLASH OVER EYES FIGURE EIGHT. TIE IN SMALL PEARLESCENT TUBING FACING OFF BACK OF HOOK AND MAKE A DUBBING LOOP OF THREAD AND CUT RABBIT STRIPS AT HIDE SPIN HAIR AND WRAP UP SHANK TO JUST BEFORE EYE STROKE RABBIT DOWNWARDS WITH WET HANDS AND PULL PEARLESCENT TUBING OVER TOP OF FLY TOWARDS EYE AND TIE OFF. HOPE THIS HELPS
This site helped me a lot.....click on "variant simram"...and others....good stuff
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