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Pacific Northwest Sea Run Forum No such thing as rainbow trout, only landlocked steelhead

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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-05-2004 11:54 AM
North Island hey Norseman
very good. I'm going to give it a try:hehe:
02-05-2004 10:11 AM
MJC
Hey Norseman...

Great tip! Thanks for sharing.
02-05-2004 06:06 AM
Norseman
Necessity the mother of invention

PVR ......here is something you can try....you won't ever get a tube spinning with this setup......and it's dirt cheap'

Go to a bicycle shop and ask to see a selection of wheel spokes. Pick the ones that will slip inside your tube material.

The spoke has a nut like nipple on the end of it. This is used to tighten it into the wheel. The nipple is key to the success of the mandrel.

Cut the spoke to the desired tube length.( cut the end opposite the nipple nut) make a hook like bend in the cut end, this is held in you vise jaws, just like an ordinary hook. Now undo the nipple nut and slip on the tube material. Re attach the nipple nut and tighten in down until it makes contact with the tube material. The nipple nut has a nice taper to the leading edge and it will act like a wedge in holding the tube tight, keeping it from rotating when applying your thread and fly materials.

Seriously, this is one of the best tube fly vise adaptors you will find....I am actually thinking of marketing this neat little version.

Try it out....it will end up costing you about $6 for half a dozen assorted length mandrels.
02-03-2004 11:15 AM
North Island H M H yup it's good
02-03-2004 01:15 AM
Wooly Worm I will 3rd the HMH $20 adapter. It rocks, and you get about 10 plastic tubes with it.
02-01-2004 11:54 PM
Flybob
Tube Fly Vise

I've found a trick that works for me when tying tubes using my Nor-Vise Tube attachment;
if using a metal tube, slip the joining(hook holding)tube onto the tube and pinch it against the inside of the tying head by tightening the screw against the mandrel.
The same holds true for the plastic tubes, only insert about 1/8-3/16 inch inside the tube head and tighten the screw against the mandrel, allowing much more of the tube to be covered by material.
There are several jaw held tube tying adapters out there. Having tried them with my Nor-Vise they offset the tube quite a ways from the centerline.
This is much less a problem in a non-rotary, or a rotary vise with an adjustment.

Bob
02-01-2004 11:03 AM
removed_by_request I second the HMH tool, at $20 a pop it can't be beat.
01-31-2004 09:42 PM
flytyer The HMH tube adapter is a very good way to go. It comes with several different sized mandrel, holds tubes securely, and it is only around $20.00. And the best part, it can be used with nearly any vise.
01-31-2004 07:51 PM
Philster Stick with the renzetti knutlaf. It takes a little while to get used to, but once you get your technique down, it's a great tool. I tie all manner of steelhead and saltwater (seahabits, surf candy, etc) flies on it, and I honestly feel that once you get into it, you will find your technique changes to take advantage of its upsides and minimize its downsides.
01-31-2004 04:34 PM
knutalf
Tube vises

I just bought a Renzetti vise, and I must admit that did not like it at all. I will try to give it another try, but I found that for me my old method with eye less single hooks works better, especially when I tie tubes with a wing and hackle side and with cone heads which I found cumbersome with the Renzetti.

A long time ago I cut off the eyes from a selection of single salmon irons and sanded them down using a Dremel tool. This is still my choice for a tube tool.

Best Regards

Knut
01-23-2004 08:22 PM
kush I use the Renzetti tube fly head - I find it works very well. I don't have alot of tube slippage as the surgical type tubing I use as a hook holder is attached first. I do it even before I tighten the vise, by simply holding the tag end of the thread and wrapping over it. Once the tubing is secure I push the tube back into the vise then tighten it. The compressed surgical tubing holds the tube very securely during the tying of the fly.

Even when I am not using a conjunction tube, the air brake tubing I normally tie on is soft enough that it compresses of flexes and provides enough pressure to resist spinning.
01-23-2004 07:51 PM
Philster
Re: tube fly vise

Quote:
Originally posted by pvr
I have been messing around with tubes a bit and am furstrated with keeping them secure in the vise. Has anyone used the tube fly attachement for a Nor Vise? Is it the ticket, or is there a better way?

Thanks in advance.

Paul
The Nor Vise works, but it works mostly for plastic tubings where you can cut some of the back end off after the fly is finished. I found some cheat methods for lined metal tubes, but it isn't the greatest tool for them and you get similar slippage problems that you get with other vises with my Nor- cheats.

The renzetti slips, but for lined metal tubes, it's a better tool.

Oh yeah, apply "in my opinion" to the above.

Phil aka "Blunt Pig-iron"
01-23-2004 07:21 PM
Moonlight
Works for me...

The Tube Fly Conversion for the Nor Vise works for me but honestly I have not tried any of the other possibilitys other than finger held.
01-23-2004 07:04 PM
pvr
tube fly vise

I have been messing around with tubes a bit and am furstrated with keeping them secure in the vise. Has anyone used the tube fly attachement for a Nor Vise? Is it the ticket, or is there a better way?

Thanks in advance.

Paul

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