|12-11-2003 04:58 PM|
|flyfisha1||Thanks Sean; I'm preparing for my January rod-building project, a Sage XP. I'm going to try the Flex-Coat Lite on this one, and will post my results when it's all finished.|
|12-11-2003 01:52 PM|
Just finished my second rod (first was about a year ago and a disaster) and used the new Dura Gloss LS Supreme. Pretty sweet stuff for a rookie like me. I used flex coat last time and it probably reflects my newness to rod building but I had the thick stuff and had trouble.
No trouble though this time. I used a very thin coat for the first coat , just enough to saturate the wraps. Then went back through and put on a thicker coat and the wraps look pretty damn good. No bubbles and very easy to mix and brush on the wraps. Also has about a 40 minute pot life so you can actually get a couple sections done no problem.
Anyway thought I would let you know how it worked for me. Two thumbs up!
|10-17-2003 07:18 PM|
Either of them produces a nice finish when applied properly. I do have a strong preference for the Flex Coat Lite though because it is a thinner finish with less build up, and it doesn't need to be heated to penetrate like the Duragloss or standard Flex Coat.
And as Steve mentioned, using thin coats produces a much better finish than think coats. Also, I have found that if I mix up a new separate small batch of finish for each section of the rod, it results in a much nicer finish because it doesn't have time to thicken before you're done applying it. Applying the finsh while the rod is rotating on the drying motor (as Steve mentioned) is also very conducive to having a good finish and produces fewer bubbles because you drag the finish over the thread as the rod rotates instead of brushing it.
|10-16-2003 08:29 PM|
Steve, that's great information; I really appreciate it. I'll be sure to follow those steps. Thanks!
|10-16-2003 08:16 PM|
Here's my method.
Clean all surfaces that will touch epoxy with acetone and dust-free cloth.
prep the epoxy: Heat an inch of water in an empty margarine container to 85 degrees (I use a stream thermometer), place epoxy containers upright to warm up, wait five minutes (they will equalize at about 80 degrees), and this provides the perfect starting temperature for mixing, bubble evasion, and applying a thin clear finish to penetrate the thread everytime.
I mix the epoxy in an upside-down beer or bottle can. The curved surface works great. Clean with acetone first. Squirt one half of epoxy directly into the other half. I use a small flat laboratory weighing spoon to mix the epoxy - gently - circular or figure 8 motion. Mix 1.5 mins, then let sit for 2 before applying. Make sure the first coat penetrates the thread well (*this is normally easy with Duragloss). I use a quality sable brush with short hair (1/4") to provide a nice firm surface for applying epoxy. Brushes hold a lot of air and air bubbles. I work the epoxy into the brush pretty well before starting to apply to rod. I'll even "sacrifice" some epoxy and spread the initial brush full onto a waste surface. THe first brush full carries a lot of bubbles
For a level finish - try using less stuff at more coats. I prefer a slower motor speed (I think mine is 8 RPM?) because it produces a minimum of centrifugal force on the epoxy, which is self leveling and takes care of itself. You can blow gently on any persistent bubbles to remove them, or use a bodkin
|10-16-2003 08:02 PM|
|flyfisha1||What method is that? I've built a few rods, used Flex Coat on the first, then used Perma Gloss. I don't think that the one-part adhesives make as nice a nice finish as the two-part ones. I was thinking of trying the Dura Gloss on an upcoming Sage project.|
|10-16-2003 07:54 PM|
I have used both and prefer the Duragloss. You'll hear the opposite about as often. I started with the Flexcoat on rod #1, then moved to Duragloss for my second project and did much better -- probably in part because I was more experienced the second time around. Since then I've worked out a method that never lets me down.
there was a product called "Duragloss 2000" that was too thin, though I've not seen it on shelves at all lately. It came and went pretty fast.
|10-16-2003 07:00 PM|
Flex Coat vs. Dura Gloss
Has anyone used BOTH of these products, and if so, would you say that you favored one vs. the other?