|02-21-2004 07:07 PM|
one fly/one method
I would most definitely swing flys using Hi-D SA Line and a Spey Fly of predominately black with flowing Spey (Dr. Whiting's) of S.D.Blue tied on Partridge Bartleet 2/0 CS10/1 Hook slightly weighted with .035" dia. non-toxic weighted wire wrapped around "thorax" for approx 3/8." The most productive (my opinion) day in and day out is, however, dead drifting nymphs right down on the bottom almost tight line leading during drift.
|12-03-2003 08:18 AM|
Will do, Peter!
Of course, I will "perform this surgery" after I try the line "as is" initially. The dealer states that my order should be in by the weekend.
Again, thank you.
|12-01-2003 06:45 PM|
|peter-s-c||Bob, let us know how it works out. I know it works for my rod and line but it's effectiveness with other rod lengths and weights will determine whether or not it can add to our methods.|
|11-30-2003 10:48 PM|
Peter, thank you for the information. Now I'm really looking forward to getting the line. Of course, I will try it "unaltered" to start, but will have NO regrets about trying your suggested modifications.
|11-28-2003 03:38 PM|
How to make a reversed WC
Start with the cut at the back taper. Find the spot where the rear taper ends, measure out another six inches and make your cut there. Soak about 1 1/2" of the cut ends in acetone for about a half hour to soften up the coating for removal. Once removed, double the core back until it forms a loop of about 5/8" long. Using 20# dacron (not mono), nailknot the loop with the knot abutting the end of the coating. Trim off the tag ends of the core and dacron then whip finish with thread about 1/4" onto the loop and about 3/8" back over the fly line.
For glue, I've been using Beacon Fabri-Tac available from Michaels craft stores or from fabric stores. It's an acetone based glue not water based so it won't come apart when wet and the acetone bites into the flyline coating. Thin a small dob of it with a bit of acetone so it is runny, then coat the loop. It dries in about 1/2 hour so repeat the process for a second coat. When it is almost dry, roll it between your thumb and forefinger so as to produce the smoothest finish you can get. This produces a very flexible, strong, smooth, low-hinge, low-snag loop.
This rig has a definite sweet spot so it's best to test drive it before making the tip cut. It isn't completely necessary to make this cut however, it would result in the running line loop being down around your feet on the cast. I prefer the loop at the fingers of my top hand. Having the all of the taper in the guides helps with the rod load. These loops shoot through the guides cleanly with no fuss so there's no need to set this rig up with the loops beyond the guides and I think it would prove counter-productive to do so.
Make a temporary loop at the original front of the fly line and connect it to the running line. Set up your usual leader rig, splitshot, fly, etc. and go casting to determine the best head length for your rod, then mark that spot at your fingers where you grasp it with your top hand on the cast. Cut and loop at this spot. Finish up by making loops for the leftover tip so you can easily restore the line to its original configuration, should you wish to use it that way.
In my case, the 10' off the front end was perfect (dumb luck -- I cut before testing) so it also gives me a good polyleader line used the right way around with no tip section.
Since the head it so short, it takes a bit of a casting adjustment. A gentle sweep makes the D-Loop then, as the leader straightens out on the anchor, just make a quick snap with your bottom hand as if you're trying to cast with just the tip of the rod. Make a high, hard stop with the rod butt in the belly and keep your top arm bent, with the elbow by your side. Then admire the line singing out . . . .
Unlike the comments on singles and shot made by a couple of the PNW boys, this rig has no trouble lifting sunk splitshot on the single or double. If you allow the shot to sink too much, the worst that seems to happen -- you get a shower from the spray produced as the powerful, energized head rips the rig from the water.
|11-28-2003 08:03 AM|
I just ordered a standard Windcutter floating. I had missed your earlier post. Wow - that sounds good!
Let's see if I have that right -
1. cut 10 feet off the front taper.
2. cut off the head and back taper from the running line.
3. Put small loops on the cut ends.
4. Reverse the head to take advantage of the short taper/heavy section of the belly.
Question - what did you make your small loops out of so they don't "hinge"?
Please review the above to make sure I got it right... I am interested in trying it.
|11-27-2003 01:03 PM|
Bob, do you use a Windcutter floater and spey rod for your dead drifting? It seems that a fair number of guys have been sold Windcutter floaters with their rods and they use them for indie fishing. If so, check out my last post on a reversed Windcutter -- it is the best spey/pocket water combo I have ever tried. D-Loops are positively tiny -- you could cast almost right at the bankside (good news for PM fishers). I was knocking out 80 footers with D-loops that were only about 5' behind me. The turnover is so powerful, it'll turn over pretty well anything you care to put on it.
One nice thing, when the line is doing the casting, there's no need to put your skull or rod tip at risk with chuck 'n' duck cannonballs.
|11-27-2003 08:36 AM|
Have to agree with Peter on the fly...
Yep - a cone head (or bead-head) olive bugger is probably optimum. As to method, I'm a fan of a drag-free drift.
|11-27-2003 12:34 AM|
|FlyFishMich||Yep, its me....hitting our grand trib in the morning for a few hours...will probably use some rather unorthodox techniques to find out whats really in there. Will let you know how the scouting went. Will be out both Friday and Saturday...let me know if you want to join?|
|11-26-2003 11:38 PM|
is that you?
|11-26-2003 10:43 PM|
|FlyFishMich||Indy and glo-bug|
|11-25-2003 09:47 PM|
if you want hook-up numbers
egg fly on indy set up is about the most effective you can get with a fly.
most memorable are jolt takes by fresh fall chrome on a swing.
|11-25-2003 04:05 PM|
I prefer to swing wets. It's not the most effective method but probably the most enjoyable. I've never been partial to nymphing.
As far as one fly goes -- that's much tougher. While I seldom use one for steelhead, if I was stuck to choose one fly, it would be a gold cone-head olive bugger.
|11-25-2003 09:09 AM|
Just thought I'd pose this question to the masses.
If you could only use 1 fly and 1 method to fish the GL waters, what would you choose?