|11-16-2003 05:54 PM|
I don't know if any of you know Gobin or not; but you all should know this about Steve. I have known him for about 12 years and he told me last December, when I asked him is he would toe a fly for the Seattle Fly fishing Show that he had not tied a fly in 3 years; therefore, he declined to tie one because his tying skills are very rusty and not up to par.
Instead of tying flies, Steve has been buidling bamboo rods from scratch that are very nice indeed. I'm sure he would build a bamboo rod for someone if they asked him too and were willing to pay the considerable price for a custom bamboo.
|11-16-2003 10:36 AM|
I think you mean Steve Gobin
Does anyone on the board know how to reach Steve?
|11-16-2003 10:29 AM|
I cut slips from the Goose shoulders ,whether marrying them or tying in one solid colour.One thing you did NOT mention is whether you are tying "wall hangers"or fishing flies .In Ron Lucas' article he shows a "head-on shot ,showing different tying methods. The one on the top right hand is the best for fishing flies and the one on thebottom of the sketch is the "correct' method for a display fly. If you ARE tying a fishing fly I might recommend Tightly winding two wraps nearest to the head of the fly and then 2 or 3 LOOSE wraps towards the tail .You'll get nice small heads that will have that boat hull -hugging the body look.Thisworks for both Spey and Dee wings. If you "work "or "hump" a fishing fly it probably won't keep it's shape.Actually not too bad a thing for a full dressed classic but a disaster for a Dee and especially a Spey wing ! Dee wings should curve into each other ,a feature that most folks get wrong. Also any Spey hackle SHOULD be tyed in by the butt first and then round up the body towards the eye.Don't believe me ??!!!
Tye up two flies of the same pattern and one (Tyed up with the tip first)will look saleable- fly- shop-look,and the other (tyed up butt first ) will look "fishy and shrimpy " looking!!
If you want some first hand lessons ,you might want to look up Steve Cobin, probably Wa.'s best tyer if not the West coast's best !
|11-16-2003 09:40 AM|
one more question
sorry, i just have one more question, when you get the slips from the goose shoulder, do you cut them or strip them?
|11-16-2003 01:19 AM|
|pastortd||Shewey has excellent winging instructions in his book. I don't have my copy in front of me, so I can't give you a page number. It's in there, though. Ronn Lucas' online tutorial is equally helpful, and can be found here. (Scroll down to the wings and you'll find the info. It's done with Bronze Mallard, but try it with the Goose and you'll get the right effect.)|
|11-15-2003 10:27 PM|
Very nice fly, I like the magenta wing. I assume you did your own dying of the turkey.
The tips provided by Stu, Silverdoc, and Speyflyfisher are excellent and pretty much cover what you need to do to get the wings to sit lower. One other thing you can do is hump the wing after it is tied in and locked down. To do this, hold the wing at its base with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand very tighly, grasp the wing with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand with the thumb and finger of each hand touching each other. then pull up very slightly with your right hand while pulling down with your left hand. This will put a very slight, nearly invisible bend into the wing feathers right nest to the tie in point. And the net result is the wing bends down closer to the body after doing this. Be very careful when humping the wing like this to keep a very firm grasp on the wing with your right hand so the wing does not get distorted.
|11-15-2003 03:12 PM|
Thats a little far away for some hands on.
Unless I take a trip to the dry side
|11-15-2003 03:07 PM|
I'm located in Brewster, Wa.
|11-15-2003 02:53 PM|
Tail: red dyed golden pheasant crest
and red dyed GP tippit
Body: 1/2 bright red wool with silver oval tinsel, Butted with red dyed GP breast feather, front 1/2 black dubbing (seal or sub.) ribbed with oval silver tinsel and hackled with black dyed Golden pheasant rump.
Throat : black GP rump and teal
Wing Magenta dyed turke tail (slate gray turkey to be exact).
|11-15-2003 02:39 PM|
That fly looks juicy-delicious!!!
Could you post the pattern....
|11-15-2003 01:40 PM|
Where are you located??
The height of the wing will be effected
by how much of a "hump" is placed on the wing prior to mounting. Also when
collapsing the wing you can not allow the fibers at the top of the wing to move forward or they will pull up the wing.
|11-15-2003 11:47 AM|
Picture a clock face, & have the wing butts occupy 10:00-2:00, instead of stacked at 12:00
|11-15-2003 12:13 AM|
One key is to have a nice, flat surface behind the mounting point for the wing. If your body material, hackle, etc. form a shoulder behind the mount point, it will push your wings upward.
Do verything you can to minimize bulk at and just behind your tie-in. This include minimizing wraps of hackle stem, tinsel, etc. Tie off materials under the hook shank, not on top.
Some of the things you can do to avoid this include tapering the body as you arrpoach the wing tie-in, using your scissors to trim materials just behind the tie-in point, and using a flat-jawed plier to flatten the area just behind the tie-in point.
Also, make your rearward wraps slightly less snug than your forward wraps; a snug wrap over a soft undersurface will tend to bend the wing upwards.
|11-14-2003 11:06 PM|
mounting goose shoulder
i've been mounting goose shoulder for some time now and have been pretty satisfied with the results i've achieved. However, i've been trying for sometime to get them to sweep low over the body. The best picture of this is in Shewey's book, in the back there is a picture of a polar shrimp spey and the white wing sweeps nice and low over the body. My wings want to stand more upright. Can anyone give me some tips on how to achieve this look?