|10-02-2003 09:37 AM|
Think about the 150# leader systems used on the GBFT, you know, the ones with the incredible eyesite! I'm coming full circle on tips and leaders, and going as heavy as I can tie and cast. I've been using 20# floro but I'm not convinced that it's necessary to do the floro routine. A certain friend of mine uses trilene 20# blue and catches a fair share of fish, even on the flats.
The quicker the better!
|09-30-2003 02:35 PM|
Yes I do us the 3 weight in the surf. Most of the bass I catch in the surf are in the wash or just outside the wash and all I need is a short 30' cast any way. And if I hook a 36" fish, it's not a problem. Landed/released several blues and bass in this range this past week. The blues were invited home for dinner and they were happy to oblige...
|09-30-2003 01:54 PM|
|Dble Haul||Just for clarity, are you saying that you land 36" fish in the surf with a seven foot, 3 weight rod? Or are you talking about a different rod later in the post?|
|09-30-2003 01:46 PM|
an alternative point of view
This may sound odd, but I have found that I can use a very light weight rod (7' 3 weight, 5 wgt floaying line 6' of 20 lb mono as a leader) and still bring in large fish in very short order fishing from shore. As has been discussed here, if you point the rod at the fish, you can exert an incredible amount of pressure on the fish and it's easier to turn a fish by sweeping it sideways, parallel to the water. Here's what i do. I let the fish do one nice long run until he stops or can be gently turned, then I just reel him in. It's almost as though he doesn't think he's hooked anymore. In close to shore, I use the wave action to help bring him in to the wash. By using barbless hooks, the fish never leaves the water when I unhook and release it. Do I fish like this all the time? No. But it's nice to know that if that's the only rod in the car, and I see a pod of fish up close to the shore, that I can use it on 36"+ fish with confidence.
|09-29-2003 07:57 PM|
I generally use a 20# test leader and don't give an inch of line unless it is absolutely necessary. This generally enables me to bring the fish in pretty quickly, but then there's the problem of actually getting a hand on the fish. Once I have to start raising the rod tip or turning the rod sideways in order to get the fish within reach, that's when the trouble begins. I'm surprised that I haven't broken a rod yet with my clumsiness at the end of the battle.
One solution that I've found is to get the fish close and hold the rod in my left hand with the line clamped firmly against the grip. Then I try to take my camera out of my bag with my right hand and try to maneuver the fish into position so I can get a photo. The fish seldom cooperate and I usually have to steer them around for a little while as I try to compose the shot. By this time the fish usually comes off the hook and I don't have to go through the process of actually landing and unhooking the fish :hehe: . Sometimes I even manage to get a decent photo!
|09-29-2003 06:58 PM|
Water temperature has a direct impact on C&R statistics. Get those summertime flats fish released ASAP.
|09-29-2003 05:48 PM|
I think it has to do with what your fishing background is. If your a trout fisherman who has just gotten into saltwater flyfishing your used to not putting to much pressure on the fish. If your a bassfisherman and fish tournments you would want to bring the fish in as quickly as you can. It all boils down to your style of fishing. The tackle and gear can handle most of the fish we catch unless you get real lucky an get a big cow which will break you off anyway.
|09-29-2003 02:20 PM|
|striblue||I recall Lefty Kreh say the time he was at Harry's at Nauset Anglers..that when you fight a big fish you should put side pressure on... as was mentioned in previous posts... the more you increase the angle in an up right position the less pressure you put on the fish and the longer it takes to get in... You would think the angle is the same with side pressure but for some reason the line is being levered with the reel more so.... since you are not really putting in a great bend when you use side pressure... you are not arching your back and in fact you can see the difference even if you TRY to put a greater bend with side pressure... you just never really can.|
|09-29-2003 01:54 PM|
I'm bringing this one back to the top from about a year ago for two reasons:
First, the most recent issue of American Angler has an excellent piece from Art Scheck regarding this topic ("Put on the Pressure"). It touches on many of the bases covered here, in particular ROD ANGLE DURING THE FIGHT. Sideways does provide more leverage and pull because it shortens the effective lever for the fish to pull on.
Second, with the migration happening, it's timely and relevant. I reread the entire thing and feel refreshed with the info.
Your mileage may vary.
|09-25-2002 10:33 AM|
Maybe Adrian would volunteer to let us tie the leader to his belt and see if we can pull him out of the rip?
Was checking it out last night - it's a 14. Guess old age is getting to me.:hehe:
|09-24-2002 11:18 PM|
|striblue||Jeff...bring the 15 wt on the Rip Trip...love to cast it.|
|09-24-2002 10:26 PM|
|dewey||One thing that I don't think has been mentioned is the importance of how one handles the fish when it is landed. I think this is much more important than how quickly it comes in or the equipment you are using. I am amazed at some of the guys on TV who will handle a fish with DRY HANDS and hold it in the air for five minutes. This is not good. The goal should be minimum handling, and minimum time out of water, if any. I try to not touch the fish, and grab the hook with forceps, one yank, and there they go. OF course I get into a conundrum when trying to take photos, which I must do, because otherwise no one would believe any of my fish stories.|
|09-24-2002 09:49 PM|
As for diameter/strength differences between various weights of fluoro, I have two spools of Berkley Vanish: 20# and 12#. The 20# is only a little stiffer and larger in diameter than the 12#. I've never had any problems with weak knots, breakage or fraying with the 20# line except when bluefish are involved. A 5 turn improved clinch knot works fine. The 12# line is very unpredictable when it comes to tying knots. Improved clinch knots break very easily. Uni-knots work well if the knot tightens down just right, but any kinks and *snap*. I've also noticed that the 12# line starts to fray sometimes when I'm testing the knot strength. Little "curls" start to peel off of the previously unblemished line. Perhaps the 12# line has degraded due to age or light exposure, although I've had the 20# line for a year longer than the 12# line.
|09-24-2002 03:10 PM|
|Roop||I'm thinking it would be fun to bring the #15 on the Rip Trip and see if someone can hook up, not let any line out & back up the beach to land the fish....|
|09-24-2002 01:11 PM|
Seems like most would agree that landing fish out of a boat in deeper water takes a lot more effort and heavy work due to a fish wanting dive to deeper depths. Only have caught albies from shore but I remember how hard it was in Hawaii to turn yellow fin from a boat when they dived deep.
This is a good thread and should make everyone who reads it start to think about what they can really do with equipment that is good working order. I think I agree with stiblue an 8 or 9 wt from shore should be able to land most stripers even up to 40 pounds if played right and a little luck. Just got to know where your breaking limit is and have quick reactions.
What is considered a fast release time for stripers. This summer while back your way landed a 41.5 inch striper in a little over 7 minutes on the 8wt gear I use for steelhead with 13.1 lb tippett. I really was able to put a lot of pressure on fish at times and keep his head coming towards shore. His runs were not that long and like most stripers very steady, even and slow as compared to a bonefish or even an albie. Was that around the average time for a striper that size to be brought in from a beach? Steelhead in the mid 30 inch range will come in in that time frame if you can keep them from tearing down river. I thought I was really working myself, rod and reel pretty hard but not sure, if that was too long, then next year will go with a 10 wt which will give me a little more ability to put more pressure on fish when I got him turned in the right direction.
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