|07-31-2002 12:46 PM|
I use 7/32 for the eel that is produced by folding and tapering a single length (whole) of material. In other words, take a full length swatch, twist the end like a moustache, then fold it. Twist the joined ends again to ensure a lifelike taper. That's the length. Your unused material stays in a perfectly square cut manner on the bundle that way. This amount of materials times two (at least) creates the ratio I mentioned, in fact it might be air resistance that makes it seem to cast without a slingshot effect. These eyes are not lead or tungsten and aren't all that heavy but they do put the point out of the crap on the bottom which is critical in flats fishing.
For smaller eels (more the case lately) I go to the smaller sizes which escapes me right now. I cut the swatch, fold, but tie it in further down away from the fold for small eels.
Good luck tying them up.
|07-31-2002 08:32 AM|
Real Eel ?
Juro, I have tied a couple of your real eels and they look pretty good. I would like to know what size dumbell you use for the eyes. For example a 7/32 for a 6 inch eel, a 3/16 for a 4 inch eel. That sort of thing.
Also, you mention that these cast better than a clouser due to the weight to materials ratio. The only difference I see is that the body is not wrapped down, is there something else that I am missing.
Finally, do these need epoxy or not.