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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-28-2002 10:27 AM
John Desjardins I got e-miled a question on the chuck this am & thought it was worthy of sharing with the forum.

> As I was getting caught up with internet boards, I noticed your post of
the rod wrapper/dryer chuck, however old it is and I obviously missed it till
now; question: how much is the crown on either of the caps flattened
before cementing together?

I didn't flaten it out too much, if memory serves me I flattened out a circle ~ 1/2 to 5/8" dia then used the adhesive to fill the gap. If I had a lathe I'd flaten the whole crown and make it really look nice.

I've had a problem with the mandrels made from dowels that I need to add to that post. They need to have enough wax on them so that the tip sticks to the mandrel. I had a tip slip out of the mandrel and end up on the floor when I didn't have the stands aligned right.
06-28-2002 01:46 PM
Stone sweet! Thanks!
06-28-2002 01:13 PM
John Desjardins Rod holder chuck


# req Description
1 2” PVC pipe cap, schedule 40
1 1 ½” to 2” PVC bushing (pipe fitting adaptor)
1 ½” or Ύ” PVC pipe cap, schedule 40
1 1” piece of dowel sized to fit inside the ½” or Ύ” PVC pipe cap
1 4-40 or 6-32 screw for locking chuck to motor shaft
3 10-32 x 1.5” screws (thumbscrews are preferable)
1 # 8 sheet metal screw
1 Epoxy cement and or PVC pipe glue

Assembly notes:

Drill a 1/8” hole through the centers of the caps. There is normally a detail of some sort molded into the cap that makes locating the center easier. After the hole has been sand any lettering off of the outside of the caps around the hole. The flatter the area around the hole is, the easier and stronger the gluing step will be. Thread the sheet metal screw though the drilled hole in the lar-ger cap. Apply PVC pipe glue or epoxy to the end of the small cap and screw onto the large cap. Set it aside until the glue has cured. The hardest part is over.

Remove the sheet metal screw. Insert a short piece of dowel into the small cap and glue. Glue the pipe bushing into the large cap. The pipe bushing is used to give enough thickness to allow for threaded adjustment screws. Set the piece aside to allow the glue to dry.

With a drill 2 sizes smaller than the diameter of your motor shaft drill through the center of the large cap and the dowel. Be careful to be perpendicular to the fitting. Repeat with a drill the size of the motor shaft. Check the fit if it doesn’t fit go up 1 size at a time until it does. Drill and tap a hole for the screw to lock the shaft to the chuck. Evenly space (120 degrees apart) three holes around the periphery of the large cap for the 10-32 screws and your done. A couple of pictures are below

A rod mounted in the chuck. This motor has a thru hole in the shaft so I just drilled a hole thru the cap and use a piece of wire to hold the chuck to the motor .

Front view of the chuck

A tapered dowel used to hold tips. the chuck screws down on the tubing on the dowel.
06-28-2002 10:26 AM
John Desjardins Its one of my quick & dirty sketches. The design is based on one done by Boyd Pfeiffer in one of the fly fishing magazines several years ago.
06-28-2002 09:53 AM
Stone Thanks John.

Did you make that diagram or find it?
06-28-2002 09:01 AM
John Desjardins
rod chuck

Stone, here is a sketch of a chuck to connect the rod the motor that I made. It's made out of a couple of PVC pipe fittings at a cost of ~ $2. I'll get a description written with pictures tonight. It uses 3 thunmbscrews to center the rod, only 1 is shown in the drawing.
06-28-2002 12:05 AM
flytyer I've been using a battery powered one (no longer available I'm afraid, but there are ones that use 9 volt flashlight batteries available for about $12.00) that uses a single 'C' cell battery for some 15 years now. I made up some 'V' blocks out of 1 x 4 screwed to 2x4 bases and lined with felt. I think I have all of $8.00 in the whole set-up.

It has dried many rods and who knows how many dozen epoxy head streamers I've tied for several fly shops here in Washington state. I use a 3 foot section of 1/2 inch PVS water line covered with foam pipe insulation for an epoxy turner. cheap and very effective, plus I can put the epoxy on the flies on the drier as it turns to the tune of about 8 dozen at a time.

I think the point of all this is that you don't have to go out and spend a lot to have a very good and useful rod drying or fly turning tool.
06-26-2002 03:55 AM
juro I paid $70 bucks for the flex coat 6rpm rig made with the $2 motor mentioned above! dOh

Live and learn. Actually, I've had it for 7 years and it's dried a lot of epoxy striper flies, probably earned it's keep
06-26-2002 03:23 AM
tonyd You can pick up a 4.8 or 40 RPM motor for a couple of bucks at Same motors used on alot of the homemade systems for sale on Ebay.You can also use a sewing machine foot pedal motor or a barbeque roticery motor.You can build the stands out of wood with a "V" shaped notch cut out of the top and line the groove with felt(or something similar),then mount the motor to one of them.Basically copy the ones you see for sale,you'll save yourself quite a few bucks building one yourself.
06-25-2002 03:09 PM
Nooksack Mac Ive used a Cabela's 4-rpm drying motor ($21.99) and attachment stand ($9.99) for the last few rods I've built. It does produce a smoother, more even finish than I could achieve by hand-turning. This is the cheapest effective setup of which I'm aware.
06-25-2002 11:14 AM
Finishing Motor

OK, what type of rigs do you guys use... where did you buy it / how did you build it?

How much?

Do you like it?

Looking for ideas.

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