|05-02-2002 08:24 AM|
|juro||HAHA! With me it would be that big rock or lobster pot... no SEAL! They have a thing for me.|
|04-30-2002 11:13 PM|
or should I call you a little high on yourself for thinking you will catch a striper that will bend your rod that much. From what I hear about you though it probably happens on a regular basis.
|04-30-2002 09:43 PM|
I've heard that the deformation of material when a rod is in play resembles and oval and a metal check must be loosely toleranced to avoid creating a stress fracture in the rod.
This leads me to take no chances with my lack of experience and go for a rubber one, call me chicken all you want!
Thanks for all the great info, I will pick a couple up and try them on for size.
|04-30-2002 09:37 PM|
Winding Check with Thread WRAPS
Most of the good silver line checks have a ramp on the leading edge that allows you to wrap up the face of the check and finish off as you would with a ferrule wrap [ loop of materia and pull through ] Looks good and you can also add a decorative ring at the start of these wraps.
-------My .02 saltRon
|04-30-2002 04:30 PM|
Otherwise, measure the blank
outside diameter with mikes or a vernier. Does Blue Northern carry that stuff?
|04-30-2002 12:21 PM|
Juro, What type of winding check are you thinking of using? The reason I say this is that there are two basic types of checks, the vinyl ones that will stretch to fit, and the nickel silver or other hard materials that need to be sized closely.
If it is the vinyl ones just buy a couple in a range of likely sizes and see which one needs to be pushed on the last 2-3". The vinyl checks only cost about 75 cents so it isn't a big expense.
If your using harder materials you need to measure the blank at the point where it enters the handle to size the check.
I may be doing this wrong but to install the check I clean the blank and handle with Isopropyl alcohol let it dry then put a small fillet of epoxy at the joint and the push the check into it. Clean up any extra epoxy and let it cure. I just wind as close to the check as I can, then cover the windings and part of the check with the rod finish.
I guess Sean beat me to the post on this one.
|04-30-2002 12:09 PM|
Well you can have two styles. A nickel one which looks better but you need to have the size match perfectly or the rubber one which will stretch to fit. The rubber ones will not slide of and plus you will be wrapping thread right up against either style so there is no danger of it falling of.
I would just call sage and ask them what winding check would fit or Smitty would probably know if you went with the nickel one.
Otherwise most rubber ones will fit just fine.
|04-30-2002 11:52 AM|
How does one match the diameter up with the blank? I assume the check is wound over it's cylindrical portion and onto the blank. If this is the case, then there must be a "bump" as it falls off. Do they make them so that they can be ground to taper?
What's the secret?
|04-30-2002 11:44 AM|
|JimW||Winding Check here's a thread on it.|
|04-30-2002 11:10 AM|
Top of the handle...
Alright, SMitty's been walking me thru all this but I thought I would ask a question without calling him for every little detail...
I have the handle on the blank and cleaned up ready for guides. The top of the wells grip is uncovered and if I recall there is a little cosmetic flange that drops down over the blank to cover that spot (?)
Or is it just thread wraps?