|04-07-2000 07:51 PM|
I used the wire tip of the threader to penetrate the side of the braided line and enter the core, slid it up about 2" and then pushed back out through the same side.
Placed the end of the line into the small 'v' of the threader with only 1/16' or so stubbed past and then gently drew it back through the first penetration, up through the core to the second penetration.
Cut the bitter end right at the sidewall and worked it back inside.
Worked slick on the Cortland 30#, I'm stil waiting for a spool of 50# to arrive.
|04-06-2000 07:55 AM|
I'd venture to say that no line system requires more loops than the complex / interchangeable hybrid line systems for Spey casting with sink tips. Steelhead Guide Ed Ward showed Andre and I some very interesting loop designs I will be considering toward my own loopiness. The most important factor was the lack of rigid profile in the attachment of the loop to the line. Even 3/8" of hard material (sleeve, cement, etc) can catch in the guides when there is pressure from a fish on one end and an angler bending the rod on the other. Although I feel my current loop system is pretty good, there's always room for improvement.
Another key to Ed's loop system is the impregnation of aquaseal in the braided nylon to provide hingless yet supple body to the braid. I've used Aquaseal to seal the nail knot which holds the loop, but not in the same manner as Ed and there may be a lot of benefit there. It might even make loops in the middle of a head (ie: hybrid configurations) bearable for striper fishing where there is constant stripping of line thru the guides during the retrieve. This drove me away from hybrid heads during earlier experimentation.
In any case, if the loop is used for leader attachment, you might consider the alternatives of (a) epoxy splice of butt loop (b) nail knotted butt loop. These are smaller profile alternatives to the braid. If used to join two line sections together (re: shooting heads) some form of loop system is unavoidable.
Bob P - What's the trick for securing the end of the braid when pulling it inside itself with the threader? The tool Bob D mentions has a 'flapper' guard thing on a tiny hook on the end of a needle-like device that let's it hook onto the material and hold it while it is pulled inside itself.
|04-05-2000 05:51 AM|
We have two sizes of splicing needles at Blue Northern, not sure how much they are. I will be in the shop this afternoon give me a call 978-772-6779.
|04-04-2000 05:50 PM|
I guess the needle is not essential. I actually had someone recommend to me today to use a guitar string, which is ironically what I resorted to last night. I guess there is a method to our collective madness after all...
|04-04-2000 05:41 PM|
Don't worry about the splicing needle, take one of the thin wire bobbin threaders and use that. I tried it the other night using some 30# braid and it worked fine. That was a nice article that Mike put together on making those loops yourself. I like the fact that it allows you to determine the loop size that suits your preference.
|04-04-2000 08:10 AM|
Make that a splicing needle--damn time change has my brain out of whack...
|04-04-2000 07:39 AM|
Does anyone know where I can get a dubbing needle for work on braided mono loops? I tried fashioning one last night with a high E guitar string and it is just not happening...
Greater Boston area or mail order, but the sooner the better.