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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-17-2006 01:07 AM
cuttbow Hi all
Just to add my .02 I use froghair because of it's versitilty this stuff is limp!! and with it I can cast and float very small dry flies even though it is heavier than water (I think it has to do with the surface tension of water)as well as large stonefly nymphs under water. They hit the FC with gamma rays which allows stretch and shock absorbtion while maintaining strength which is a great combo to me. As for knots I use a perfection loop to attach to my mono loop at fly line and a palomar to attach flies also a surgeons knot with an extra wind works great to add more tippet during the day and for attaching to mono. The real secret is not to heat up the line while tightening the knot but don't get it wet like mono just tie slow and smooth.

Golden Sides
12-17-2005 10:47 AM
huibgeselschap leader materials are a difficult thing to discuss.
it is interesting to know that there was an article in Flyfishing & flytying which gave the results of tests done on most FluoroCarbons that are around now, most surprising to me was the fact that not all lines were of the diameter (and thus the BS) they stated, it even varied on the same spool! Best advice i can give, if you have a line you like FC or not, stick to it, because you know exactly what you can do, and more importantly what you cannot do with it.
as for FC, sure its better than common stuff in clear conditions, but dont forget, we all caught our fish before there was FC

as for the testresults Fulling Mill World class FC was one of the best in the test,
if you like me to post the full results here, just throw me an email, as im not in here too often
greetings,
huib geselschap
whgeselschap@hotmail.com
11-24-2005 11:18 AM
chromedome
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pauli
A couple of simple practices keep me out of trouble with FC:
1. Use latest generation fluorocarbon, such as Fluoroflex Plus from Rio. First generation FC had good strength on a test machine, but no impact resistance to sudden shock from a startled steelhead.
2. Never use FC with dry flies because it has a specific gravity of approx. 1.5 or 1.6 compared to nylon 1.2. FC sinks all dries I have tried it with in my [spring creek] fishing.

Theclearblue give good advice about disposal. Because FC is UV resistant, it will not deteriorate in the outdoors. Take your clippings out with you.
I would say your statement 1. goes against what I earlier posted about preferring the original (first generation) Fluoroflex. But the other day I had reason to question my earlier post when I lost a large steelie due to breakoff with the original stuff. It happened more or less like you say above. I was holding my own with the fish after some strong acrobatics and other leader testing antics. But then, all of a sudden it took off, and I suspect this was because I went from a fair to foul hook situation. Not long into this run the knot broke. I was using an unorthodox knot, so I can't be sure what caused the break, but it sure has me thinking again about the various grades of FC.
11-16-2005 08:59 AM
Bob Pauli A couple of simple practices keep me out of trouble with FC:
1. Use latest generation fluorocarbon, such as Fluoroflex Plus from Rio. First generation FC had good strength on a test machine, but no impact resistance to sudden shock from a startled steelhead.
2. Never use FC with dry flies because it has a specific gravity of approx. 1.5 or 1.6 compared to nylon 1.2. FC sinks all dries I have tried it with in my [spring creek] fishing.

Theclearblue give good advice about disposal. Because FC is UV resistant, it will not deteriorate in the outdoors. Take your clippings out with you.
11-16-2005 06:40 AM
chromedome
A different result

My experience has been different. I use the Rio FF almost exclusively myself. I do a lot of fishing where abrasion resistance from jagged rocks and turbulence is very important. And I need to goto 2X, sometimes 3X, for the steelies I target. Since I'm referring to a situation where I'm bottom drifting a two fly tandem, and almost never break off at the knot tied to the hook bend of the upper fly, I'm pretty sure abrasion is the main culprit for break offs. At first I used the original Rio FF and soon noticed I had to check tippet to eye knots frequently as they were losing strength presumably from the bottom rock abrasion. Mono was never an option due to the lower visibility of FF. But a few I know, and who are very knowledgeable fishermen, still prefer Maxima tippet citing the better abrasion resistance. Later FF+ came out and I was elated to read of the greater break strength and thought this would be the answer to the abrasion problems. Not to be. I got more suspicious break offs with this material than with the original FF. I concluded it to be less reliable than the original FF where abrasion is concerned. I am now back to using the original FF

One aspect that really gives me fits is that I have a use where I need to tie 3X directly to 1X. Now the surgeons knot would seem to be the answer. But when I first tie and test this knot it usually breaks. On repeating the tie a second and sometimes a third time, I can finally get it to pass the break test. Its as if the tippet has to be broken in to the tying process!!?? Once I get a knot to pass the test it is usually very reliable. I was using a double surgeons to start with here but recently went to a triple surgeons and while the jury is still out, this extra turn does seem to improve my result but not all the time.
06-05-2005 04:37 PM
theclearblue I've used quite a few brands, and settled on Rio Fluoroflex Plus. It's readily available in local shops, knots extremely well, and hasn't given me any reason to switch brands. Umpqua's Super Fluorocarbon is exactly the same as Rio's Fluoroflex Plus if you can't find Rio around.

The flouroflex plus material is quite a bit more supple than previous fluorocarbons, and I'm impressed enough to use it almost exclusively. I still wouldn't want to fish a FC leader, however. I haven't encountered any problems blood knotting flourocarbon to nylon leaders of similar diameter.

It's probably not a good idea to use fluorocarbon on small dries, as it tends to drag them under, but I think it's ideal for larger, more bouyant dries, as the tippet gets right below the surface film and doesn't tend to stand out as much as nylon does (in my eyes, not necessarily the fish). Fluorocarbon is hands-down a winner for nymphing/streamers.

Obviously the knots you use will depend on the difference in diameters you're connecting and how large they are to begin with. But properly lubricated and tightened improved clinch and blood knots haven't given me any trouble. You've got to love the abrasion resistance of fluorocarbon as well.

Don't forget to dispose of it properly!
05-30-2005 12:35 PM
trouthunter82
Fluorocarbons

Could anyone compare this three fluorocarbons (fluoroflexplus, froghari fc and grandmax); I mean knot strenght, enlongation, stiffness...

Which is the best for dry fly fishing, and for nymph?
What experience do you have with them in terms of fishing?
What are the better knots for each of them?


Thanks.

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