|09-24-2005 08:50 PM|
I was thinking H.S.T. just did not know for sure. Thanks.
|09-24-2005 08:30 PM|
Spaghetti tubing is another possible source. Mcmaster Carr is a good starting point.
|09-24-2005 07:10 PM|
|Eddie||airflo lines are not pvc|
|09-24-2005 02:41 PM|
I strip the coating, then slide a six inch legnth of braided dacron (30 lb backing) 1" onto the coating. Then I thread the other end of the dacron in a needle, stick it into itself starting where the coating is stripped, exit 1/2" down the coated part. Pull to draw the stripped core into the dacron "sleeve" to form the loop. Use a four turn nail knot to secure the loose end of dacron, over the sleeve. Like you say, Juro, tighten both sides of the knot, by pulling on the standing end and the loop. Make it bite into the coating. Brush on two coats of Solvent/Cement, allowing first to dry for 5 min. Cures overnight but could be put in service after an hour.
As far as I know, (and I forget which manufacturer's literature let this slip) all lines floating and sinking are PVC coatings. I'm not sure about clear lines but its pretty likely. Floating has air bubles in it, sinking has glass beads or tungsten powder in it. I'll bet they used to have lead in them. I've done this to sinking lines, haven't tried a floater yet. The Primer/Cleaner doesn't seem to harm dacron or nylon.
If I could figure out where to get those little PVC tubes, like Rio uses on their welded ends, I could do away with the dacron sleeve and it would be alot quicker. I don't expect them to give away their secrets, but somewhere in the industrial supply world lurks the PVC tube - and I will find it! I think I'll look in the electrical section first. Please PM me if I'm getting out of line with sponsors trade secrets, all my lines are from Rio, I love them and they work great. I just feel the incessant need to modify things.
Juro, now that I have your attention please review my fish farming proposal in the conservation forum. This could be huge and no one has even responded to it yet. It totally blows net cages and commercial fishing right out of the water, and protects native fish populations at the same time.
|09-24-2005 11:07 AM|
What did you use in place of a sleeve? Also, are all coatings pvc based including sinking / high density? hmmmm......
|09-24-2005 10:53 AM|
The PVC Solvent/Cement works. Aquaseal and similar products are urethanes (rubber) and will bond to the PVC coating on the lines. PVC Solvent/Cement melts the coating and then as the solvent evaporates the PVC polymers in the compound intertwine with the polymers in the coating. This is chemical welding, thus producing a "welded loop." Both cans in clear (other colours available), total cost under $6 CAN. It can be used as is and will keep for 3 years. The fumes are a little nasty, use in a well ventilated area.
|09-23-2005 08:41 PM|
|Eddie||nice post. thanks.|
|09-23-2005 03:16 PM|
Works really good for seperating the coating from the core of your fly line for making loops and splices.
1. Get some clear PVC Primer/Cleaner from the plumbing supply house or hardware store.
2. Dip the end of your line right in the can for 10 or 20 seconds.
3. Use a soft tool, like not your fingernail. to pull the now softened coating off the core. It should just slide right off and leave the braided dacron core perfectly clean and unscathed.
I'm trying PVC Solvent/Cement as a coating over top of my splices, it is also available in clear and is basically the primer plus some PVC solids. It looks good and is easy to work with right out of the can. A close examination of a certain name brand line splice looks like they slid a braided (nylon or kevlar?) sleeve over the core, folded it to form the loop, then slid a pvc tube over the doubled line and then cemented it. If any one knows where to get the braided sleeves and the tubes please post it. If anyone has already posted the PVC Pimer/Sealer useage, my apologies. I ran a search on the forum and did not find it.