|10-04-2001 06:48 PM|
For lilly pad skimming I loke the single strand of mono from the bend to the hook eye. I use Mason's hard mono so I can get extra clearance form the hook.
I haven't really had much success with the other styles.
|10-04-2001 04:22 PM|
Nate, I agree with you about the mung, some days nothing gets though it.
My interest in weed guards is for a pond loaded with lilly pads and grass. I'd like to be able to quietly pull a fly onto a pad and then drop it back into the water. The bass and pickerel in this particular pond respond to a retrieve like this. With spinning tackle I'd just Texas rig a sluggo or plastic worm, but I want to use the fly rod.
|10-04-2001 03:46 PM|
|Nathan Smith||Weed guards are not designed for floating weeds like the mung we get here that stick to hooks no matter what. They are made for ground weeds like eel grass when going after snook or redfish and work great for that. I guess it is just a Florida wantabe thing around here|
|09-28-2001 12:23 PM|
My own experiments with weed guards proved unsuccessful, when used for salt the amount of weed all over every knot and the fly itself made the guard moot; in fresh I tend to avoid weedy areas but I would have a lot to gain from a good weedguard system in lakes and ponds.
I'm anxious to hear what others have come up with.
|09-27-2001 11:58 PM|
Weed Guards ?
Most of the time I do not use a weed guard. When I have tied flies with them I've always used a loop of mono tied in at the rear of the hook looped to the hook eye. Today I used a fly that was no longer weedless because it had sat in a fly box for a while and the mono took a set leaving the point exposed. Quite annoying and ineffective.
So I have to ask; What do you use for a weed guard, and what are the pros/cons of that method?