|03-20-2000 08:26 AM|
That is what I was thinking it would work great for. I picked up a package, though they are not the magnum strips. I picked them up at the sale shop at Orvis Manchester (VT). No one wanted that color it seems, so they had a few packs available. Checking out the Hunters Fly Tyers Catalog they don't offer them in blue - I thought they would. So, I would recommend getting a tanned white skin from the craft store and dying it with RIT blue or another dye. I'm sure an olve back would work pretty well to imitate a herring as well.
Bob, if you want me to send a few strips email me your address.
|03-19-2000 11:00 PM|
I've been looking for some blue! By any chance it wouldn't be a kinda sorta herring-type blue would it?
|03-19-2000 09:28 PM|
You sure have come a long way from the prototype you showed me at the tying clave. Keep up the great work!
Fletch-tite I used to make my own arrows why didn't I think of that? Doh!
|03-19-2000 09:21 PM|
All of the flies look great! Thanks for taking the time to explain the construction and pass along the glueing tip. You have inspired me to go out and find some rabbit skins at the craft store. I already have some blue zonker strips that I never did anything with - now they have a purpose.
|03-19-2000 07:46 PM|
WOW! Bob I was impressed when I saw the one you had at the CCA dinner, it's nice to meet the rest of the "school". Few flies combine the living motion, contrasting color and lifelike proportions like these! These gotta be deadly out on Middleground, eh?
|03-19-2000 03:58 PM|
New Patterns "The Double-Bunny"
The Hunters tying catalogue illustrated a tan over white bunny fly at the header of their zonker listings. I tried to copy it but couldn't find the right cement to bond the two skins together. Dan Fitzgerlad at Hunters was nice enough to tell me that he had used an archery cement called Fletch-tite. It applies as a thin liquid but stays flexible. These were tied on a 254SS 2/0 which seems about the right size for the fur...
Measure your top & bottom strips to the same length (the magnum strips work well as they are usually cut a little wider)
Locate the correct position for the bottom hide to align with the top of the bend, push hook through that point from the hide side.
Slide up to the top of the bend and tie off the end at the head.
Take the top strip, tie it at th head and them fold back away from the head.
Wet your fingers and stroke the fur of each strip up (or down) away from it's skin to keep the fur away from the cement.
Apply a light coat of Fletch-tite to both skins and roll the top strip down over the bottom while holding the bottom strip tight without stretching. (Easier than it sounds)
Make sure the skins are centered over each other and gently squeeze till you feel the cement start to set. Work around the hook shank gently to try to get the skin edges to seal around the shank but don't worry if they don't seal completly.
Add some flash along the lateral line formed by the skin seam. The black one above has no flash at all but the same color with two strands of krystal flash look good. Thin flashabou looks nice on the lighter colors or you can take one wide strip and take it about halfway back.
Whip your head to a neat finsh.
Add eyes by putting a small amount of 'goop' on the back of the eye. Make sure your flash is nice and straight and seat the bottom of the eye just on the skin seam.