|03-17-2002 10:39 AM|
|03-17-2002 08:25 AM|
When you snake the braided line 30# preferred, over the exposed core, make sure you cover a good portion of the remaining coating.
I acutally use a razor to taper the edge of the coating to make it a little easier and the final knot more streamlined.
! important: always tie the nail knot so both ends of the knot bite into the coating...
in other words, a nail knot tighens on the opposite end from which you pull, so pull the tag end on the left to tighten the right end of the wraps, and vice versa. Make sure both of these are biting into coating under the braid.
Clip flush with a nail clipper, the best flush cutter for the money.
Coat with thinned aquaseal and let dry.
|03-17-2002 07:59 AM|
|loco_alto||thanks - I've seen that article but had lost the link.|
|03-17-2002 05:33 AM|
This is an old article I posted ten years ago for singlehand hybrid tips / loop contruction but I use it for Spey lines so it might work for you:
All but the line cutting and blending proportions, that is. FYI - those loops I was building at the date of the article are still holding today! Many of the lines have cracked or been stepped on with carbide tipped soles but the loops are good to go.
|03-16-2002 07:51 PM|
looping sink tips
What method do you prefer for constructing loops in/on sink tip lines? either on the mainline or tippet ends.
I've been making braided loops for the mainline connection and a whipped loop for the tippet end. Any other methods you prefer for strong, sleek loops?