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Thread: Yakka-Pika (Pike fly) Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-12-2002 09:26 PM
Adrian Mark

Cool posts - now I know what to do with all those EP fibers
02-12-2002 04:10 PM
Dble Haul
Yakka-Pika (Pike fly)

Here's another entry in the pike swap from Frenchcreek.

Hook: Wide gape, 1/0 or 2/0
Thread: 3/0 or stronger monocord, chartreuse
Body: White bucktail, white yak hair, powder/light blue yak hair, chartruese yak hair
Flash: 6 to 10 strands of white/pearl Krystal flash, mixed in with the white yak hair
Eyes: Deep See Eyes, silver, 3/8 with 3-D molded eyes, 6.0 (or yellow doll eyes if you can get them), glued on with Cryo glue (they won't last or stay on if you only use the sticky glue on the eyes)
Head: Optional to finish the fly with an Epoxy coating over the barbell eyes

This fly is about 6+ inches long and swims upside down due to the barbell eyes...

1. Tie on the barbell eyes about 1/4 inch back from the hook eye

2. Tie on a bunch of white bucktail hair right behind the barbell eyes, on the top of the hook shank, trim to end square for a good fit, make several strong wraps and add some head cement to secure this. This usually extends about 2 to 3 inches past the hook bend. It should be large enough to build up the body of the fly behind the barbell eyes such that the next layer of yak hair will lay almost flat along the shank and barbell eyes.

3. Tie in the white yak hair, on top of the hook shank and covering the bucktail, about 5 to 6 inches long, wrap it behind the barbell eyes and then again in front, clip the front end at an angle to avoid making the head too big.

4. Rotate the hook and tie in a bunch of chartruese yak hair, on the bottom of the hook shank, about 5 to 6 inches long. Tie it only in front of the barbell eyes. Repeat this step with the blue yak hair, mix some flash into the hair, avoid real fine flash material, it gets stuck in piker teeth...Krystal flash works OK, OR use a larger type of flash, almost as wide as large tinsel, like saltwater flashabou, one strand on each side and one on the bottom.

5. Comb the entire fly (I use my dog brush) to blend the yak hair.

Note: After you cut the yak hair to length, pull (stagger) some of the hair so that you wind up with a "tapered" look at the back end of the fly. The way I do this is to split the bunch of hair in two or three smaller bunches and overlap the bunches so that each is a different length. Something like this:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=1=6 inches long
+++++++++++++++++=2=5 1/2 inches long
**********=3=5 inches long
This gives the fly a "tapered" appearance.

NOW, GO FISH!

This fly is a creation of mine, inspired by a yak fly Juro gave me several years ago. I tried it in the salt and caught stripers and blues with it. On lakes, cast the fly and strip it in with long erratic and jerky strips, the take is usually VIOLENT. This fly seems to attract all sizes of pikers. Fish it on a dry line in water up to 8 feet deep, sink tip (short sink tip=5 feet of type 4 sink rate) in deeper water up to 15 feet. Use a 10 to 12 inch long wire tippet tied onto a 6 to 8 foot piece of 12 or 14 pound mono line. Let the fly sink and then strip it in with fast, jerky long strips (12 to 18 inches each) so that it swims up on the retrieve and sinks on the pause. I get a lot of "followers" on this fly and often hook up when the fly is no more than 5 feet away from the boat. Making the fly change direction usually triggers a strike.

In rivers, use a sink tip line and "swing" the fly erratically by making short violent strips and then upstream mends to cause the fly to change direction and swim up and down in the water column.

Hooks are debarbed because pike will fight real hard and build up lactic acid really fast. Quick releases are important...use a 9 wt rod so that you can bring the fish in quickly to a "cradle" rather than a nylon net. Barbless + cradle = your fingers stay away from the mouth of these toothy critters and it is easy to turn the hook over for the release.

Pete
Frenchcreek

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