|11-29-2007 02:51 PM|
I like the idea of trimming down your fly "on-site" to match the conditions. I'm going to try that. I also totally agree with you that bonefish are not the most selective fish on the planet. I am certainly not the most experienced bonefisherman-in fact, I still consider myself very much to be a novice who is in the thick of the learning curve with a long ways to go.
I have about six total weeks of bonefishing, but one thing I have found interesting is that when you go with a guide, they are always very, very specific about they want you to throw. All the guides I've had have gone through my boxes, and "discarded" about 3/4 of them, and then they will have me fish with one of about four different patterns. On the two weeks that I have fished on my own, I have tried all kinds of patterns and caught fish on pretty much anything, with minimal refusals. I think that far and away, the hardest thing about bonefishing is 1. finding the fish. 2. seeing the damn things (especially with my Rocky Mountain trout eyes) and 3. leading them right and putting the cast in the right spot. I have yet to find that the pattern is absolutely critical, although I feel that the size is important. Anyway, nice information. Great pictures and ties too, K.
|11-27-2007 08:26 AM|
Your welcome... Thats an old trick. If I ever catch a decent fish I'll definately do the same thing. "This fish was actually caught on <insert discussed pattern here>"
Nice fish - Where did you catch it?
By the way, I see the sense detaching materials to match the conditions. I have actually added as much "bling-bling" as possible to my own flies. I was just wondering if you have ever removed the bead chains succesfully?
|11-26-2007 06:59 PM|
..... Here's an 8/9 lber caught two weeks ago on a fly that I altered three times before I was comfortable with it.
Had to sneak in a little gratuitous fish porn
|11-26-2007 06:55 PM|
A lot of great input already but I wanted to chime in as well.
IMHO there is very little difference between 90% of the flies in the bonefishing universe. Pretty much all small and tan, right? Based on that assumption I've come up with a very effective way of maximizing the flies in my box. There are four main differences in my flies:
4. Attractors (legs, eyes, etc)
I agree that you want to tie up at least 6 at a time. I usually pick three sizes (4, 6 & 8). Then I tie them in three different weights (weight and size are, to me, the two most important variables). That's a total of 56 flies for all types of water.
Here is what I do that is a little bit different. I tie all these flies the same, including flash, eyes, and legs. I include EVERYTHING on the pattern. By having everything already on the fly, it only takes a small pair of scissors to adjust to current conditions and fish preference. Fish spooked because of the flash, take out the scissors and with a couple of snips the fly is muted and flashless.
I used to have the exact same problem you outlined at the beginning of this thread and this solved it. Let's face it, Bonefish are incredible pound for pound fighters, but are typically not the most selective fish in the world (I know some people will argue this, but as a gerenal rule....). As long as you know the basic patterns used on a given Island, this approach works.
Hope that helps
|11-26-2007 05:18 PM|
Geordie, thanks for sharing.
Your tieing "conditions" is a privilege I hope I will have someday
Good point with the throwaway fly...
|11-23-2007 05:32 PM|
I had kind of the same experience as you did in that one of my mentors is an exceptional tyer and did so professionally at one time. He told me that he didn't feel like he knew a fly until he had tied a "dozen-dozen". A.K. Best has a similar quote in one his books. I'll tie a dozen when doing trout flies, but when I tie bonefish flies, I stick with half a dozen. Most trips I've been on, I rarely lose flies and they are so bombproof (I zap a gap everything in sight) that I rarely will use more than 3-4 of one pattern. I love to tie and will inevitably hand out flies to anyone who wants some, which means I get to tie more. Good stuff.
One other invaluable tip he told me was to never let a "throwaway" fly in your box. You boys know what I'm talking about. Especially when tying a new pattern, there's those inevitable ties where the wing is a little too long, or the body is too stout, or the hackle is too small. I used to put those in my box thinking that in a pinch, I would use them. I never, ever do and will usually look for a different pattern. If I tie a bug that is not up to snuff, I will put it in a separate container and palm it off on one of my fishing buddies rather than let it take up valuable space in my box.
I'm fortunate in that I have a room for tying and abundant tying time. I used to lay stuff out, but I realized that I have about 3,000 flies in my vest and gear bags, and I am really in no hurry and can take my time. I really enjoy messing around with different stuff and trying different variations of a fly. I rarely will tie a steelhead pattern the same, and will mix something up on most ties. Have fun on your trip.
|11-21-2007 10:09 AM|
I've made quite some ugly mutants as well. I'll bring them thou they will probably never be used...
However Im very satisfied with the Sili-Gotcha. I cant wait to throw it at them
|11-20-2007 07:21 PM|
Tying up a dozen or half dozen of one patern is also a lot more economical material wise as well, and like everyone is saying the quality and consistancy improves quickly as well, if I ever try to flip around on paterns I usually end up in a hell of a mess !
Ps your flies look good to me
|11-20-2007 03:46 PM|
I got your point and I agree, thanks!
Well, I might need to several dozen of the above "killer" in size 6
I think the bones will go crazy on it...
|11-18-2007 05:41 PM|
This is exactly what myself and others were talking about. And if you know you are going to need several dozen of each fly and size, you can go about tying them in batches of 12 per tying sessions. You will be amazed at how quickly you will have all the flies you need, and your tying area will stay neat as well.
|11-18-2007 07:29 AM|
Ok - Im rolling now
First, make a mess:
Then clean it up and organize:
Decide a specific pattern:
Tie at least half a dozen at same configuration
|11-17-2007 03:57 AM|
Thanks a lot for all of your advices!
Its very encouraging to receive such input.
Im allready on my way to the vice, looking very forward to tie a bunch.
Im a little short on hooks, so the six-piece-at-a-time approach must be the way to go. I've decided to start with size 4 gotchas with clear/orange sili legs. I will let you know how I get away with it.
Since Im tieing at a small collapsible kitchen table (humble conditions - I know ) the point about lying the materials out ready in advance is even more reasonable. I will definately do that.
I have 6 weeks to take-off, means there is still time to tie a bunch. Further, I've decided to bring a vice and a selection of materials. I'll be on the road for almost 3 months so I guess I'll eventually run short on flies regardless how many I tie in advance. My goal must be to fill the box with a good selection of basic patterns (which leaves gotchas with sili legs as basic pattern ). I will have plenty of time to experience "out there" and adjust the flies to "local conditions"
|11-16-2007 07:18 AM|
The advice from Flytyer is very good.
I can understand where you are coming from. I have suffered from the same syndrome.
The problem only really becomes apparent when you start fishing.
You have a box full of different flies, which fly do you choose?
You find a fly that works and then you either lose it or a fish destroys it, what do you do now?
By all means tie variations but make sure that you have enough of each type.
|11-16-2007 06:07 AM|
|nmbrowncom||in my limited experience i have found that bonefish are a little like trout in that they tend to key in on a particular size and color due to water depth, light, and current. i tend to tie my flies in 3 weights so that i have a choice of fly depending on the water depth and current. i tie 5 or 6 flies in each pattern/weight. i also tie up some larger brighter flies for those days when wind, current and water turbulence make visibility (for the fish) an issue. those larger patterns i usually tie in 1 or 2 weights. likewise, for those days when the water is calm and shallow, the sun bright and the current slow, (and thus the fish spooky as hell) i tie smaller flies without weight so as to present softly without spooking the fish. in such conditions i want to have 3 different shades of fly depending on the color of the sand. i.e. bright and shiny, light tan, and light brown. i think that jims' and flytyers' advice on the actual tieing is spot on. if nothing else, follow their advice. it will make the whole fly tieing experience more enjoyable and productive.|
|11-15-2007 09:50 PM|
Flytyer provides some sage advice on tying multiple flies of the same size and configuration. Laying out the material in advance is also a good technieque used by the profesiionals. One other advantage to tying 6-12 each of one pattern/size is that with quantity, the quality improves. My rule of thumb on new patterns is that it generally takes tying one fly six times to get a constant quality.
Consistency also is a function of paying attention to detail. As an example, when I get materials ready for a particular pattern, e.g. clousers, synthetic material length and quantity are identical for the batch being tied.
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