|07-27-2001 12:02 PM|
|Craig||Working in the metal industry we use dry ice for shrink fits, not sure but the same theory might be at work here.|
|07-23-2001 10:25 AM|
I tried the ice trick a couple weeks back and it worked for me as well. I had a cooler full of cold drinks, took some ice out and cooled down the ferrule after several other attempts and it worked nicely.
|07-22-2001 11:54 PM|
Well a couple of large single malts have " impacted" my ability to spell. Read that "10%" to 100%.
|07-22-2001 11:52 PM|
Nasty, Nasty stuff. Have a Sage 9wt Spey that likes to pull this trick on me in sections two to three on a 4 piece rod. Put out a "plee!!!" with the folks on the International spey casting board on how to seperate the darn sections. Contest :>)
Winner, and repeated several times since, is to take a section of aluminium foil and fill it with ice cubes. Get the connections/sections very cold and VOLA each and every time the da... things seperate.
Wax the connections? Bees wax, no scent, 'designer' candles because they have a bit of oil for the 'sniff.' Do wax the connections but go for the pure wax. But ... sometimes the best of plans .... and the foil and ice cubes have worked 10% of the time. No crank info, God knows why it works but it has worked every time.
|06-22-2001 03:43 AM|
|bill||I noticed that Brian keeps a pair of rubber gloves on hand for the task|
|06-21-2001 08:02 AM|
I've also heard that keeping a couple of those rubber thin pads that are for opening stuck jar lids can save you too. You use them to grip the blank, using two of course.
A little paraffin wax on the male end of the ferrule applied with regularity makes stuck ferrules a rarity in the 'prevention' category.
|06-20-2001 04:21 PM|
I somehow missed this post before... great idea! Let me guess this was a rocky mountain discovery.
You could drill a couple different diameters or taper with rat tail file too.
|05-17-2001 10:22 AM|
Un-sticking jammed sleeve-over ferrules...
Last year, a visiting rodster decided he would lube his ferrule with a light oil, before installation. He lived to regret that move, as he was able to force the tip section well beyond the Winston's specs over the butt section. It cost him the rod which broke during many attempts and personnel's ideas to unseat. Wish I was there. I'd have made him a low-tech "rapper".... a 1 x 1 x 12 bolt of Aspen, with a hole drilled one end the size of the tip section, a hacksaw slit to slip over the butt to mate with the shoulder of the offending tip, duct tape to keep the slit together, and *rap-rap* with a mallet on the bolt while holding the free end, with a buddy holding the rod along with you. It takes about 5 light taps, and the rod undoes. If no aspen, then another specie will be ok....pine, oak, etc. When using the harder woods, one needs to rap softer, and have the hole real close to the diameter of the tip's shoulder. If this tip appeared earlier in time by another, regrets..... my browser has limitations, and certain commands seem not to catch. I'm going to upgrade soon. Cheers.