Spey Rod Ferrules [Archive] - Fly Fishing Forum

: Spey Rod Ferrules

12-12-2001, 02:58 AM
So what do you do??? Tape 'em, wax 'em or just make sure they are nice and snug before you begin fishin'?

12-12-2001, 07:18 AM
Couple of things here: All rods develop a lot of 'torque' when you're casting. For me, the heavier the line wt/longer the rod the greater the loading. Secondly, some rods have a very, very nasty habit of 'unscrewing' themselves at the ferrels (Sage is the worst of the bunch, far less of an issue with the Scott or Loomis blankss).

A lot of folks will wax & twist (some prefer perfumed ones due to the oil in the wax) when putting the rod sections together. I do with the Sages but found no benefit with the Scott or Loomis speys. The tapeing is extreamly helpful in keeping the sections from loosening up over time. But check them frequently anyway.

The feel of the rod/cast will change significantly with a loose ferrell and you stand a great chance of busting your rod at the connection.

The taping is that extra ounce of protection; takes just a moment and can save your rod.

12-12-2001, 07:20 AM
tape 'em or weep

12-12-2001, 11:19 AM
I buy the big blocks of pure parrafin wax at the grocery store for peanuts. I haven't even used the first block up yet over the years. Although I've noticed some loosening of the ferrule when I am lazy and don't do the pool cue trick, I have never experienced a loosening ferrule when wax has been applied, not even once. I carry a roll of electrical tape that was used close to the core just in case, never had to use it. All but one of my Spey rods is a Sage.

I've had far more loosening of 2hnd travel rods in 3 or 4 pc, now I parrafin those ferrules as well and the problem is non-existent... unless I get lazy again :rolleyes:

Now if I could cast like Tyler I'd tape every trip!

12-12-2001, 11:25 AM

I used to tape with my 9140. I use ferrule wax now and make sure I check them every hour or so. On all my rods, I have yaken a toothpick and put a dot of white enamel on each side of the ferrule joints. This way you can easily tell if you get twisting and it also is quicker to get it put together right when you start your day. Scott does this on their rods and I have never figured out why Sage does not.


12-12-2001, 11:28 AM
I use Candle wax and never screw the tip on ..just push it on as best alined as I can and then may have to twist it slightly to line it up... I think the wax holds well even with 550 gain and 10 wt double hauling.

12-12-2001, 01:41 PM
Never taped em yet, and I've only blown one up (my first - before I started using paraffin).

Gotta credit Juro for a favorite trick - melting wax into a film cannister and creating a hole in the middle while still warm. Then you can wax your tips like a pool cue when necessary.

The drawback of wax is that it's messy (get dirt in the wax and you'll scratch up your blanks).

Great tip, 'tip!!! I'm gonna get some white enamel and mark my blanks before the next trip.

Tape works, it's just a hassle. Depending on the insurance you want against blowing up your rod, you make your choice. Tape is the best, but paraffin seems to work well for many of us as long as you're careful to seat the sections well before you start fishing.

My .02,


12-12-2001, 04:59 PM

Just tape them, One of the greatest contributors to the twisting torgue is the type of line one uses. I tape and notice the ferrules loosen more with long belly lines, I have not really notice this as an issue with WC type lines. With WC type lines the wax hold just fine, however when I'm using a 80+ft taper I wax and tape. Simple the tape my be a slight pain but if you drive to the OP for a long weekend and your rod blows up is 30 extra seconds to tape the ferrules worth the time.


12-12-2001, 06:16 PM
Oone warning on the film can trick - once I started sight fishing the flats in the mid-summer sun the hole kept filling itself in when th wax melted. I cut a plug from the block and put it in my pocket in a hurry and by mid-day I found out how they make those waxed cotton shirts the hard way. Now I just use an extra-stout ziplock baggie in a small size so when it melts it just re-hardens and I rub it on the ferrule like ski wax. This all works fine but you still need to be careful about the baggie breaking and keep it fresh. Then I put a shirt in the dryer with the baggie and now I have two flats shirts with pockets impregnated with wax. :p

12-12-2001, 09:45 PM
A while back I posted a sugestion on this subject about the attributes of bees wax and a bit higher melting point for the hot days on the flats. I also believe there is possibly a certain amt. of natural rosin in the product which will tend to grip the two surfaces tighter. I have never had any problem on the dis-assembly of conecting of the sections because of this as a little additional warmth seems to allow the break down of the rod.
My .02 saltRon

12-14-2001, 12:47 AM

I really believe it will depend on the type of lines you are using. At the least you will need to wax regardless of the lines you are using. Shorter heads put less torque on the rod so waxing should do fine, this has worked for me for a long time, no problems so far. But longer heads like the accel, salmon spey, TT spey, work a rod much harder and taping for me is mandatory with these lines. Also all rods aren't the same I have a new winston DB rod that I have to wax and tape and still you can see movement in the ferules but at least I know it won't move enough to break at the ferule because it is taped. With the 9140-4 that you have with windcutter type lines waxing should be sufficient.


12-16-2001, 07:49 PM
Tape them.

I ALWAYS tape, there are many reasons. I blew up one of my B&W 18' rods last year - even though it was taped, the huge amount of torque involved while using a long-belly 12 wt Speydriver line was still enough to allow some twisting and the thin walled Bruce and Walker didn't stand a chance! As I fish long-bellies most of the time I find that twisting is a constant concern. I used to wax - but it didn't stop the twisting. Even simple taping wasn't satisfactory on my bigger Thompson and Skagit rods. It wasn't until a friend from Sweden put me onto a technique that really works. Lay 2 strips of tape along the blank opposite each other, I usually use about 3", I then wind up, then down, then up and down again. This does the trick.

With the cost of even a low end spey rod I cannot fathom how anyone would choose to chance a loose ferrule and a break, take the time to do it right - tape is cheap. As I use rod racks transport is not a problem and most of my trips are 2-3 days long the taped rod is not a hassle - I can't dream of not taping my rods - even if for only an afternoon.