Rod Loading [Archive] - Fly Fishing Forum

: Rod Loading

06-08-2001, 10:59 AM
I recently started striper fishing with a Sage RPLXi 10 weight. This rod replaced a St. Croix Legend Ultra.

I threw a Teeny 450 last year which was a real chore for the St. Croix so I purchased a Teeny 350 to replace it. There was only a 1"/sec. stated difference in sink rate.

My problem is this: I find I have a hard time loading the RPLXi with the 350. Teeny's stated rod range for their 350 grain is #8-#10. I throw a Teeny 550 with the RPLXi, this loads and throws very nicely.

I know we all have different casting styles and I am hoping anyone out there has advice on how to better load my rod with the 350. I want to stay at ~7"/sec. sink rate so I really don't want to trade up to a heavier grain line or purchase another line.


06-08-2001, 01:35 PM
How far out into the bright running line are you throwing the backcast? With these line styles it makes a huge difference how much running line you allow to extend out of the top guide. Try letting the backcast slip 10 feet into the backcast before the foreward stroke. If still light, try 15, then 20.

If this doesn't cut it for you, consider trying a full sink 10wt WF density comp. You get a lot more flexibility with the amount of line you aerialize with a full sink like than a compact sink head line (teeny, QD, Deep Sea, Depth Charge, etc).

06-08-2001, 02:31 PM

The overhang I expose prior to the back cast is only about a foot or so. I "shoot" (really just let it slip) a few feet prior to the forward cast. I find that if I let too much overhang out I lose control of the shooting head and I end up just tossing it instead of transferring energy positively to the line.

I've been Lefty Kreh's instruction on casting these lines: Don't false cast, make the slowest possible back cast in a small arc and a quick speed up and stop in the forward cast.

06-08-2001, 03:06 PM
I cast these heads too and of course the ideal way to cast them is with a small amount of running line out of the guides, hence the suggestion to experiment with more to see if the rod loads up better. The ideal length was implied in other words, and the suggestion was to see if extending loads more. Yes there is a point when control is lost becase of the violation of the golden rule of fly line design at the back taper - decreasing diameter and grain weight over the progression of the length of the line. I was suggesting a length less than that, for instance 10, 15 feet kept dynamically energized to avoid 'turbulence' in the loop form. I have no problem going for 10-15 feet extra with the Rio deep sea -or- the Cortland QD as long as the line is dynamically engaged in the act of passing the shock wave thru the loop. A single false cast gets the loop accelerated for me as well, when needed. It's obviously not always needed though and any more than one is a waste.

But all that being said, if you want to cast with the proper amount (a foot or so) of running line exposed and a
crisp motion then maybe you need to increase grain weight.

The Deep Sea Rio feels heavier than the Cortland QD, I have a 325 grain if you want to experiment with it although it's going backwards. They also make a 4xx so it stands to reason that it would load more agressively too.

I am eyeing the RPLXi 10wt for a 2001 birthday/Xmas present so can't comment until I get one in my hands. I use the 9wt RPLXi and it casts a range of lines well because it has a nice sweet spot that loads up well and it can generate line speed without being stiff, which is my preference for a fly rod.

Another option would be to build your own T-style line using hi-density sinking shooting heads like the guys out in the pacific northwest (like Jim Teeny himself) have been doing for decades. SA STS tapers come in 30 foot lengths and are rated for line weight as well as density (ips). You could buy an 11wt type IV STS and chop it back a little (T-series are 24 ft I believe) and compensate for any lost taper with a 50# leader butt, tapered down to normal SWFF tippet. This would still form a nice loop. Better yet since you control the head properly cut the taper off the back end and leave the full forward taper minus the useless level front 12" section.

Anyway, good luck.

06-08-2001, 03:14 PM
Thanks for all the advice Juro, I'm going to try to maximize overhang, adjust my stroke and add a false cast.

I'd buy another line if I wasn't still in the red with my spending money after the rod purchase!

Again, thanks.