02-05-2006, 02:00 PM
What do you guy' s think about weed guards on bonefish flies.
Do you think they hinder hook sets?
If you use them what types do you tie in?
Is it agood idea to have at least one or two of each pattern tied w/ a guard?
I was wondering the same thing, where I'm headed (the keys) they are highly recommended. I'm thinking about tying most of the patterns with them and if they present a problem in hooking bones (not a bad problem to have for a rookie like myself), I'll simply snip them off.
What about using 30lb floro for guards, I'm not sure how stiff they should be would 30lb rio hard mono do the trick, having trouble finding the Mason brand.
02-05-2006, 07:46 PM
If you're bonefishing in the Keys they're mandatory. Same goes for redfish, snook and trout. A number of my tarpon flies have them too. As far as a weedguard hindering a hookset- don't worry about it because you aren't going to hook a fish with six inches of grass trailing from it. I generally use 16# Mason on all of my bonefish flies tied in horseshoe style. Jim, if you're having a hard time finding it locally, try World Wide Sportsman (they're owned by Bass Pro), Cabelas or Kaufmanns.
02-06-2006, 08:41 AM
Jim I think the RIO hard mono would work but 30# is too heavy. You want 15-20#
Last year I started just tying a length of hard mono down the length of the hook out past the eye. Tie it in on the side with the hook point. Then finish the fly as usual. When you are done just bend the mono extending past the eye back towards the hook point. Trim it a little bit past the point and you are in business. Seemed to work pretty well.
I would say more than 50% of my bone/permit flies have weedguards.
02-06-2006, 05:45 PM
I just ordered some 30# hard mono guess I'll go pick up some 15 or 16# also.
Big Dave when you bend the mono back towards the point do you put a wrap or two around it to keep it there?
I end up in the Bahamas for bones most of the time so a weedguard gets very little use. Sometimes you are throwing into grass but there's not much in the way of flotsam to worry about down there. I would say I have a few and use one or two in a week down that way.
An unweighted fly fish slowly above the weeds gets good reactions too. I've been surprised by how far a bone will rise to take a fly under the right conditions (e.g. not tailing).
02-07-2006, 08:01 AM
You don't need any wraps under the weedguard to hold it up. The hard mono will stay more or less where you bend it.
You dont' need to bend it more than perpendicular to the shank. Even if it is out in front a little bit it will keep the fly from hanging up. This will also leave your hook unobstructed. Leave the weedguard a little longer if you want to use it this way.
02-13-2006, 09:33 AM
i'm stationed over seas and getting mason hard mono is hard at times, instead i use 15-20lb Ande mono. it works great, a lot of the flats in the keys, even the sandy ones will have a good amount of grass and seaweed floating through with the tide. even if grass isnt a problem on a flat there is so much lime stone and coral to het hooked up on that a weed guard is a very good idea. simply tie in a "V" shaped weed guard on smaller clousers and crazy charlies, and on the larger flies like larger clousers and deceivers tie in a loop style guard. most of the "blind" bend backs work well on the bones and dont requiure a guard since they are tied with out eyes they get hung up less and seem to glide from grass top to grass top.
03-27-2006, 03:20 PM
I do agree with the above a good brand 15 or 20lb. mono works very well as a weed guard and does not change a thing for hookups. As far as I know it helps a lot in the shrimpgrass.
05-05-2006, 11:35 AM
I tied up a slew of bonefish flies with mono weed guards for Belize where the turtle grass is really thick. I found that you cannot keep them in a box. The least bit of pressure on the mono while in the box will deform it, and you cannot bend it back. Therfore, I have been experimenting with stainless wire.
Dan Blanton uses two strands of Sevenstrand wire on his tarpon flies. It is tied in at the eye, and bent back to protect the hook on both sides. I have been doing the same for my bonefish flies.
Most likely, you local framing shop carries a woven stainless steel wire with a plastic coating. they usually carry wire that will support picures up to 100#. For bonefish, I use the lightest which is 15 pounds. The wire doesn't have to be strong. It just has to move the fly away from the grass. It doesn't have to move the grass.
When tying on the wire, I use a piece two or three inches long, fold it in the center, go through the eye in a downward direction, and tie the fold in on top of the hook. I leave the wire projecting foreward and out of the way while tying the fly. You can bend it anytime, even on the water.
This light wire bends easily, and you must check your fly often. You can fold it out of the way if you want. Then put it back in position when neccessary. It is a lot easier to tie in than mono.