windcutter 7/8/9 line does it suck? [Archive] - Fly Fishing Forum

: windcutter 7/8/9 line does it suck?


snoryder
10-03-2005, 08:32 AM
Hey guys, I just bought the windcutter line. I haven't tried it yet, waiting for my new reel. I got a good deal on it but I'm not sure if its the line for me. I'm in Southern Ontario, so we don't have the deep heavy waters like out west so I"m not using the heavy sink tips. I bought the floating line, no tips. Will this line cast these tips or no, I've heard they don't and I have to do some cutting, which I really don't want to do. My old mastery line casting 15 ft sinking tips well, will this windcutter do the same? Also heard I have to strip line in if I have the whole head out, which is short at 55 ft. I guess its enough, but its getting cold, and who wants wet hands in November. I was thinking of buying the XLT, found a really good deal on them. You think this would be better and would I have to cut the front end off to throw sinking tips? or just add them to the end with no surgery?

And one more thing, Does the 7/8/9 windcutter even work well with my GL3 8/9?

Thanks

juro
10-03-2005, 08:51 AM
Windcutter is a great line and is responsible for more north american spey-hooked fish than any other I'd bet. Very versatile.

Best advice I can give you is to bring it to the Cattaraugus River Spey Clave on the 15-16th October. You might get lucky and get some good answers online but you'll get the very best answers at the clave first hand.

In general, you need to cut the line at 15ft from the tip, then loop it up so it can be re-linked anytime. Then you can use any of the standard WC tips with it with confidence.

peter-s-c
10-03-2005, 10:48 AM
The Windcutter floater isn't very useful for our waters unless you cut it and loop it for tips. There are some places where it will work fine as is, but generally no. The old version of the Windcutter floater wouldn't even turn over a 10' Polyleader decently without cutting back, let alone a 15' tip. I don't know if the new version of the WC floater is any better in this regard, but I wouldn't think any improvement would be big enough to handle tips and Polyleaders without cutting back.

You also need room to let the line work. You probably know what used to be the willow tree pool on the Credit off of Burnamthorpe. I tried using my uncut WC 9/10/11 + a 10' T-3 Polyleader on that pool and the length of the rig in that confined space wouldn't let me get the belly out of the guides. The result was awful. Cutting back not only enables you to turnover tips but also reduces the range problem as you'll find it easier to work the belly out of the guides in confined areas. You may find your old Mastery to be a superior fishing line if you're working shorter ranges. I also had an old Mastery 8/9 on another rod and found it much easier to work on the Credit vs. the Windcutter.

Forget the XLT unless you plan on hunting down Atlantics on the east coast. It's a pretty useless line for our waters (I know, I had one) unless you hack off 25' and stick tips on it. There is not a chance for an uncut XLT to turnover tips.

The GL3 8/9 has a pretty soft, lively tip section so if you cast that line off of the tip, it should fly really nicely. The GL3 isn't the ballsiest rod out there so underlining it a bit won't hurt provided you work just the upper section of the rod. I have a rod with a similar bend profile as the GL3, only stiffer throughout. It's a 10 wt. yet it could cast my 7/8/9 very, very nicely working just the top half of the rod.

snoryder
10-03-2005, 11:08 AM
Thanks, man I hate this, I just want to buy something and work. So now I have to cut line and attach loops, which I don't like especially when you have a fish on and your bringing those loops through your guides.

Peter, I did buy the old windcutter, I guess I got a good deal, Can I buy the interchangeable tips from RIO?

I am thinking about going to the Catt Clave, I missed the grand river clave, I need some info soon.

What glue do you guys use to cover these loop connecters or do you use the shrink wrap. Which would be the slickest?

thanks guys

peter-s-c
10-03-2005, 12:26 PM
I've wasted enough money on buying the wrong stuff for our water, to stock a fly shop. PM me anytime if you want to review gear for our rivers.

Buying the braided Cortland stuff and making your own loops is the cheapest way but if you're buying factory made loops, stay away from the Cortland versions as they make their loops way too small, producing a clump that'll catch on every guide. The Fenwicks (Airflo loops in disguise) are the best as the loop is fairly large so it smooths down when linked. Don't worry about hinging.

Throw away the heat shrink. Slide the loop all the way onto the tip of the line, making sure the tip gets into the doubled section of the loop. Using 10 lb. mono or similar, nail knot the braided sleeve as close as possible to the end of it as you can get. This permanently locks the sleeve and it'll never pull off. Trim off the straggly bits of the sleeve then whip finish over the knot using 3/0 thread. If you want to improve the stiffness, whip finish over the joint between the fly line tip and the doubled over section of the loop as this part can wear if it bends too much. Use either Aquaseal thinned with toluene or Fabric-Tak thinned with acetone to seal the whippings. This loop arrangement will slide through guides very nicely, won't come off and should last as long as the line.

I can post a picture if you like.

You can buy the 15' tips from Rio, individually or as a set.

peter-s-c
10-03-2005, 01:08 PM
at a cheap price . . . .

Cut 15' off the front, loop it and put it in your leader wallet. Cut 9' off the next section and throw that piece in a drawer. Loop the blunt section of taper on the end of the belly and connect it to the 15' front section of the floater, any 15' tip, 10'-14' Polyleaders, or chunks of T-14, and you're in business for your rod, pretty well anywhere in the GL region (except the Niagara).

This modified WC essentially becomes a Loop Adapted shooting head system at a much reduced price. It produces an overall head length of about 45' - 46' long that is roughly equivalent to the Loop system for a rod in the 14' to 15' range. The profile of the belly tapers is also close to the Loop as it too, is blunt both front and rear. Being relatively short, it'll load up quickly at short ranges yet it can deliver about a 100' cast as it has the grains to load your rod into the butt. Retaining a bit of the taper in the front of the belly reduces the clunkiness of such a short, thick section of line. Did this with my WC 9/10/11 and turned it from a dud into a gem.

snoryder
10-03-2005, 01:40 PM
Cool, hey man we have to hook up one day before the season gets going. I should be getting my new reel next week, I'm hoping it comes this week, cause I did have a weekend of fishing planned. I'm not taking out my float reel again, I was bored last week with it.

And ya, I'd rather an experienced person tie these loops, unless you know of a good website where I can learn how to tie them, I'm more than willing to try I guess.

thanks

peter-s-c
10-03-2005, 02:04 PM
I'll probably be fishing Caledonia on the 10th -- it's one of the few places where an uncut Windcutter floater will function well. If you can make it out there, look on the west bank, between the dam and the bridge, for a silver Golf TDI and a short, dumpy guy waving a big stick in the middle of the river.

I can show you the looping method there if you wish.

Speypages has lots of stuff on making loops but most are more involved than what I've mentioned. If you don't mind a bit of weed catching the nail knot occasionally, you can dispense with the whippings.

BTW, I can bring along some shooting heads and Skagit heads that'll work on your rod, just so you can see some different setups.

snoryder
10-03-2005, 02:50 PM
I may be able to get out then, I don't think I get my reel till then, I'm really hoping it comes by the end of the week. I planned on fishing the Catt this long weekend. I'll keep in touch.

peter-s-c
10-03-2005, 02:58 PM
Got a report this morning on the Catt and it's slow so far. Hopefully it'll pick up by the weekend for you. I have a spare reel or two if you want to test drive some stuff on Monday.

snoryder
10-03-2005, 03:13 PM
I was there on Saturday, fished the reserve @ the corn fields. It wasn't that good. I hooked into 3, biggest being about 10 lbs. I expected more, since I was using my float gear. My friends were swinging, they got into some fish, but yes it was slow. I've been fishing the Catt the past 3 weeks and its been slow. I should of been fishing the Notty. Oh well, I was practising my casting the other 2 weekends.

I just sold my other reel, thats why I have none. Anything happening yet at the Grand? I can't wait to start fishing there, its only 45 minutes from my house, I can save a lot on gas and you have the room for some distance cast, which you probably don't need to do but its fun trying.

juro
10-03-2005, 03:18 PM
And ya, I'd rather an experienced person tie these loops, unless you know of a good website where I can learn how to tie them, I'm more than willing to try I guess.

thanks

Personal preferences not withstanding, I am partial to the loops I've been using for about 20 yrs now and based on the number of approving friends I have to say they are worth mentioning. Super-easy to build. Right here on the forum, just click here:

http://flyfishingforum.com/expertise/steelhead/lines/tipsystem.htm

Currently working on a new system with the help of a member who sparked off some new ideas... but this one has been my choice for about 20 yrs or so.

peter-s-c
10-03-2005, 03:27 PM
I just sold my other reel, thats why I have none. Anything happening yet at the Grand? I can't wait to start fishing there, its only 45 minutes from my house, I can save a lot on gas and you have the room for some distance cast, which you probably don't need to do but its fun trying.

I'm about 10 minutes from Caledonia so it's obviously my first choice -- very slow right now.

When you get your rig together and before you start slicing and dicing, a weighted fly on a long leader cast slightly upstream in moderate or slower currents, followed by a couple of upstream mends to sink it, can get sufficiently deep to have a decent shot at fish. It certainly a pleasant way to get some mileage out of the floater before you start doing the line surgery thing.

snoryder
10-03-2005, 03:27 PM
Thanks juro! :)

BLACK FRANCIS
10-03-2005, 07:15 PM
Or you could just go to a shop buy a clouser line in an 11 wt put a sinking leader on the pre-looped end and go fishing. with a 12 ft rio sinking leader and the 40.5' head on the clouser gets out to about 55' at the fly which is nice for your area and the big creek in NY. works well with a floating or intermidiate leader as well.

the loop method Juro describes is easier than it looks and will pull a car.

just a different aproach and my 2 centavos.

peter-s-c
10-03-2005, 08:09 PM
Nick, next time we're both in the same ballpark, you're going to have to let me try that rig. Back a few years, at the suggestion of somebody out west, I did the same thing with a WF-9-F Headstart line + Polyleaders used on a 6/7 Lamiglas. The neat thing about the clouser line is that it's ready to go out of the box. The line has roughly the same taper profile as a reversed Windcutter and I know that works very well for slinging tips.

snaggletooth
10-04-2005, 10:28 AM
Hit it on the Res early Saturday, lots of jacks on swung purple/black marabou tubes, probabably 15 hookups, but not one fish was bigger than 3lbs. Kinda had that "domestic" look to them. Hopefully the big kids come out to play soon.

snoryder
10-04-2005, 11:28 AM
Hit it on the Res early Saturday, lots of jacks on swung purple/black marabou tubes, probabably 15 hookups, but not one fish was bigger than 3lbs. Kinda had that "domestic" look to them. Hopefully the big kids come out to play soon.


Hey I was at the Res early saturday. Where were you guys fishing.

peter-s-c
10-04-2005, 11:57 AM
Hey I was at the Res early saturday. Where were you guys fishing.

and how about some pics of those tube flies -- 15 hookups makes them worth a look . . . .

juro
10-04-2005, 12:54 PM
Sounding good for the pre and post clave angling week after next :smokin:

One week later than last year and there were plenty of 10# plusses around then.

BLACK FRANCIS
10-04-2005, 04:38 PM
"Hit it on the Res early Saturday, lots of jacks on swung purple/black marabou tubes, probabably 15 hookups, but not one fish was bigger than 3lbs. Kinda had that "domestic" look to them. Hopefully the big kids come out to play soon".

what does this have to do with a windcutter line thread?

snaggletooth
10-04-2005, 04:48 PM
Sorry, guess it was sort of O/T. We were at the next access below the Cabbage Patch. I'll get some pics as soon as I get the time.

snoryder
10-04-2005, 05:22 PM
So you guys were fishing near the 5/20 bridge. I just spoke with the RIO guy. I'm looking for tips and wallet. Anyone know exactly what tips I need so I know what to look for in the store, instead of the store guy trying to sell me his leftover stock, ya know what I mean.

tx

peter-s-c
10-04-2005, 05:58 PM
The T-3 and T-8 were the ones I used most. The intermediate can easily be replaced by a floater, long leader and some weight in the fly. The T-6 didn't seem to offer any advantage over the rest. You either have to really, really get down, or you don't.

snoryder
10-04-2005, 08:18 PM
Peter, so I cut my line at 15' then I would replace it with the T3 or T8. Then apply my airflo sink tips or I just attach my sinking tips and thats it. So I'm not really adding to the overall length I'm just replacing the floating section that I cut off with sink tips.

Ok I think I get it now.

peter-s-c
10-04-2005, 08:35 PM
Yup, the Rio tips are 15' long so if you get their 8 wt. T-3 and T-8 then cut & loop your WC 7/8/9 at 15', you're good to go. As you said, the overall length of the head doesn't change -- it's always 54.5' -- makes casting simple if you don't change the overall length. If you get the 8 wt. Rio tips made for that line, you won't need any Airflo Polyleaders. With mono & some weight plus the T-3 & T-8, you'll cover most of the water we fish around here.

BTW, if you want to use Juro's loop method, I'd suggest you practice on an old piece of fly line before you put the scissors to the Windcutter. I'd suggest using mono to pull off the core instead of clippers as suggested in the site. Take a piece of 10 or 12 lb. mono, tie an overhead knot in it but leave the loop open. Slide the fly line in the loop about an inch then tighten the mono as much as you can so that it bites into the coating. Then pull both tag ends as hard as you can away from the fly line and you'll pull off about an inch of coating. Repeat if you need to take more off.

snoryder
10-05-2005, 07:30 AM
Cool thanks, do you think I can add more line to make the head longer, make it the same length as the midspey?

So Peter, I can use the fly line core to make my loops right. I don't have to buy the loops and attach.

juro
10-05-2005, 08:40 AM
Best way to strip the core is with nail polish remover. The pic may look like a clipper but I have an electronics wire stripper that is perfect for removing coating once you find the right gauge for the particular line brand / weight. Kind of hard to find though, I got it from a friend who does electronics assembly. The mono loop trick sounds good.

snoryder -

In my loop design the core is the 'heart' of the loop but it requires a sheath of braided mono (like the store loops) over it. Plain core hinges, binds, and is not durable enough. You buy the braided mono in inexpensive spools, 20#, 30# 50# etc. depending on the thickness of the line you are going to loop.

By integrating the core and the cover it gets the structural strength while also being easy to loosen and they last forever if built correctly. I've got loops fished for well over a decade that show no signs of wear.

BTW - Many line manufacturers are making such good loops on their pre-cut lines that there is hardly a reason to make them anymore (Rio, Airflo, etc)

peter-s-c
10-05-2005, 09:52 AM
Juro, I used to use acetone to strip the core but since Toni Karuvaara showed us the mono trick, it's so quick, I don't bother with the acetone anymore. Apparently the Scandianvians use this method as a quick field trick to tune their shooting heads, making loops out of the core.

snoryder

The main difference between the length of a Windcutter and a MidSpey occurs in the belly, not the front taper. If you lengthen the front taper on a Windcutter, you will inhibit turnover. Rio sells an "upgrade" for the Windcutter that is essentially a lengthened tip 2 and I had one for a while for a 7/8/9. I cast it alongside a Delta Long 8/9 (comparable length) and it wasn't even close. If you want something with the length of a MidSpey, then get the MidSpey rather than fiddle with the Windcutter.

To use Juro's method, you still need to buy some Cortland 30# or 50# braid, to cover the core, but you are basically making the loop out of the fly line core, as do the manufacturers with their factory welded loops.

snoryder
10-05-2005, 10:26 AM
OK thanks guys I've got an old fly line to play around with, have to go buy some braid today.

juro
10-05-2005, 10:59 AM
It will last you forever so it's not a bad investment but if you have store bought loops the braid is the same stuff, just on a spool.

If you have trouble finding it PM me your address I will send you a few feet of it (I have several spools of the stuff, or contact a sponsor and they will send you some, that's where I got it from).

snoryder
10-05-2005, 06:50 PM
Hey thanks, I'm going to check my local guy here. So I'm going to use a braided loop. I thin I have one on my trout rod, they come in an orange colour right. But this braid is soft and supple. The loops that come from factory are coated. Will this affect how it lays down. Have you tried coating them with epoxy? Think it will work? Not sure how long epoxy will last with the rubbing, but its worth a shot.

juro
10-05-2005, 08:51 PM
No need to coat the loop, the mesh is the reason it's easy to remove when you change tips. The core provides structure to the braided loop. Just the wraps need to be coated, and aquaseal is the best because it's not a brittle material nor will it ever rub off.

snoryder
10-06-2005, 06:42 AM
Cool thanks Juro and Peter, you guys have really been helpfull. I appreciate it.

snoryder
10-06-2005, 02:12 PM
Hey guys this is what I bought, I don't think I bought the right ones, cause its says its knotless type. Thats the only one he had. If its no good I'll check another flyshop. And if I do try this, I should still reinforce the braid with some mono?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/snoryder69/fish002.jpg




tx

peter-s-c
10-06-2005, 02:54 PM
The backing is fine but those Cortland loops are thick and small so they really bunch up and clunk through the guides. Paul also stocks Fenwick so see if he can get Fenwick (Airflo) loops instead -- much slicker. Go back a few posts and in one of my replies, I've described how to securely install these braided loops.

Jamey McLeod
10-07-2005, 09:21 AM
I buy the spools of that braided mono and make my own. Coat them with a thin coat of Aquaseal and let them fly. They do make a bit of a rumble going through the guides, but I have never had one fail me.

Make the loops as small as posible to minimize the rumbling.

I hope thats CDN $$$ on that price tag on those loops.

peter-s-c
10-07-2005, 09:26 AM
Make the loops as small as posible to minimize the rumbling.

I hope thats CDN $$$ on that price tag on those loops.

Expensive eh? Even in Canadian dollars . . . .

Funny, but the small loops on the Cortlands have caused me more trouble than the big loops on the Airflo and Rio versions. The big loops seem to link more smoothly and lay flatter. The Cortlands bunch up and make a "fist" of a knot that in a couple of cases has actually stopped a cast from going out when the loop grabbed a guide. I've totally stopped using Cortland loops for linking line sections (OK though for the terminal end).

Jamey McLeod
10-07-2005, 09:47 AM
A few times I have coated them up with the Aquaseal the night before fishing. The next morning thinking they are dry I stick everything together and head off to the river, only to find out later they weren't dry, and now are stuck together.

I have a similar story about patching my waders the night before a trip and jumping into them the next morning and heading to the river. You guessed it, still a bit tacky. It was also in the summer so I didn't have the barrier of capilene between me and my waders. The girl I am dating really got a kick out of it, as she had just waxed her legs that day.

OUCH!!!!!!!!!!! :Eyecrazy: :Eyecrazy:

Sitting on bucket in my garage that night I contemplated if I could just wear them for the rest of my life. Fortunatly I had decided against wearing my "Euro taper" undergarments that day. :hihi:

peter-s-c
10-07-2005, 10:04 AM
OUCH!!!!!!!!!!! :Eyecrazy: :Eyecrazy:

Sitting on bucket in my garage that night I contemplated if I could just wear them for the rest of my life. Fortunatly I had decided against wearing my "Euro taper" undergarments that day. :hihi:

That's a visual I don't want to try and imagine! :eek:

BTW, now that I've got the self-locking knot working on the running line loops, it's all I use any more -- very slick.

snoryder
10-07-2005, 06:48 PM
The backing is fine but those Cortland loops are thick and small so they really bunch up and clunk through the guides. Paul also stocks Fenwick so see if he can get Fenwick (Airflo) loops instead -- much slicker. Go back a few posts and in one of my replies, I've described how to securely install these braided loops.

You think he'll take them back. I asked if he had any other loops. He didn't. I'll return them tomorrow.

Hey Peter do you think I can cut the loop and just use the braid to make my loop? It looks long enough to make one. Paul mentioned I can just use glue to attach the knotless braid. Is this true. I wouldn't trust, I would definetaly wrap it.

peter-s-c
10-07-2005, 07:34 PM
Don't care for gluing as it stiffens the loop section of the line. A single nail knot is just as secure and there’s no stiff section so it goes through the guides better, especially the tiptop.

Before you go back, give Paul a call to see if he has any Fenwicks. If not, use these loops for a while -- they'll get you going. With a nail knot at the end of the braid, you can always cut the nail knot off, slip off the loop and replace it with something better later on. It's not necessary to whip finish them when you're trying it out.

If you want to do Juro's loops, it will actually work out cheaper in the end to return the Cortland loops and buy a spool of braid.

juro
10-07-2005, 08:47 PM
snoryder -

Braided stuff works like the Chinese finger trap - the harder you pull the tighter it gets. Except for the open end, it's a near-ideal system in and of itself. The most vulnerable time for a loop is when it's not under tension, or worse yet when it hits a guide and gets loosened from behind. So the problem is holding it on when it's not under tension.

So you need some type of secure device to prevent it from slipping off. It could be a nail knot, or a glob of good glue.

Although there is some merit to coating with a flexible material, glueing the whole loop stiff with a hard glue provides no benefit to the braid's natural physical properties.

In my design I skip the finger trap physics and just use the braid as a sheath over the stripped core for hinge-proofing and easy removal even after a snag all in a very compact loop design. Thus there is no braid on the core of the line below the coated knot.

Another method, perhaps easier, is to use the sleeves you bought and tie a small nail knot on the back end, then coat with aquaseal or a flexible durable glue. This allows both the finger trap and the safety catch on the back.

peter-s-c
10-08-2005, 12:23 AM
Just to be clear, I was referring to not liking the entire sleve glued -- like Juro says, a bit of glue at the end is enough to hold things in place. When I whip finish the nail knot and the end of the line, I protect the whippings with thinned out glue.

You can fish with just a nail knot as a temporary measure if you're not sure about your work and you think you might be taking it apart later. However, it is a good idea to glue or whip finish the knot for a permanent installation.

snoryder
10-08-2005, 07:17 AM
Ok, thanks again guys, I think I'm ready, I hope my reel is waiting for me when I get home.

Fished the catt yesterday. I'm still here in Niagara. With the rain we had all day friday I'm not going back for awhile. Peter you still fishing Monday, is the fishing ok up there? you guys getting a lot or still just the odd one. Peter as far as a good day there, whats a good number, is he fishing good there?

Glenn

peter-s-c
10-08-2005, 03:04 PM
So far it's been slow. I've heard that small ones are being caught at the dam but I haven't had a pull yet.

Here's a picture of the Rio loop on the blunt end of my Rio SSH 10/11 that I use for Skagit casting. It shows the type of whipping I use to cover the nail knot and to reinforce the bend point at the end of the fly line -- especially important when looping a thick, blunt end.

I'll be taking this line out on Monday at Caledonia with the new 9/10 Dredger, to see if I can dredge up a fish.

My best day there has been seven hookups. Nowhere near the numbers of fish that the Catt holds but they're streambred and feisty so one landed is a satisfying day.

snoryder
10-08-2005, 05:49 PM
Nice that looks good. I just got back, no luck my reels not here so I won't be swinging with ya on Monday. Thanks for the pic. I have a good idea now on what to do. I just have to figure out the nail knot. I've found some detailed instructions, so I'm going to practise them tonight.

juro
10-09-2005, 12:20 AM
Peter -

How is the top (end) segment finished in this picture? I am trying to understand it as every loop I've seen has given food for thought. If it's secured at that point then what function does the rest of the braid perform?

peter-s-c
10-09-2005, 07:03 AM
The open end of the braid (top whipping in picture) is secured by a nail knot then whip finished. The bottom whipping in the picture, just covers the braid, there's no knot underneath so the sleeve can still function. All it does is stiffen up the transition from line to doubled section of loop, often a point of excessive bending and wear. I started doing this after having a loop partially come apart at this point. It also helps the loop move through the tiptop at sharp angles as the loop won't fold over at this point, nor will the blunt end of the line catch on the guides on the retrieve.

While I often don't bother with this whipping when I use a braided loop to attach leaders to the fly line tip, I do use it any time I've employed a braided loop as a connector between sections of fly line.

FKrow
10-12-2005, 03:20 PM
Peter,
What do you use for the leader loop? I find that knots (perfection or double overhand) will hang up in the guides and would like to use some other form of connection on the leader butt to make the loop-to-loop.

Regards,
Fred Krow

peter-s-c
10-12-2005, 05:32 PM
Fred

This is something I've not really worried about as I seldom seem to pull the leader loop into the guides while casting/fishing. I can't think of anything beyond coating the knot in Loon Knotsense (sp?) to produce a nice, smooth lump that'll go through the guides.

Fred Krow
10-12-2005, 08:20 PM
Yes, I have tried the knot coating however, it is still somewhat bulky over a perfection loop. I like longer leaders and sometimes pull the knot through the tip top.

I may try some loops in the leader butt with Lefty's served loop to make the smallest construction. Some kevlar thread whipped or possibly mono nail knot with coating? I have never read references to this type of connection.

Another thought is your braided loop connection on the leader butt?

Regards,
Fred Krow

peter-s-c
10-12-2005, 09:05 PM
Another thought is your braided loop connection on the leader butt?

Regards,
Fred Krow

I use three methods for attaching leaders -- heavy mono on sinktips that will only ever see short lengths of leaders attached to them, braided loops on floaters that could be turning over either longer mono leaders and/or Polyleaders, and most recently I've been constructing loops instead as I find that they go through guides better than braided loops when using Polyleaders or other sinktips on them. As far as mono leaders go, I only use a double surgeons loop or a perfection loop.