07-07-2004, 03:14 PM
Does anyone have any favorite flies for fishing in slop such as surface weeds, algae and/or lily pads? I'm looking for something that will stay on top that can be worked through the slop without getting gooped up or snagged. Any suggestions?
07-07-2004, 05:36 PM
Without being species specific, or fly specific, one trick I use a lot is to tie a "beard" made of 6-8 long & stiff moose body hair. this acts as a weed guard and often causes the fly to skip over the slop because of the slight flaring into a cone shape under the fly. Try it! :eek:
07-07-2004, 08:29 PM
I've only tried this on one fly before with good success.
Lightly weight the shank of the hook so the point rides clouser style and make a foam body. I think with a little tinkering this idea could do some great things. The fly I'm refering to is a frog profile doubled sheet of closed cell foam over rubber legs and a peice of circular foam for eyes (they had something just like it in fly tyer magazine). No fish caught on it but the northerns love swinging and missing.
07-07-2004, 09:03 PM
IMHO algae is a pain. :frown: I haven't found anything that get through it cleanly. Thankfuly you can cast it off sometimes. Milfoil is almost as bad. Lilly pads & grasses are easier. A weed guard will help with them.
Anyone using bend backs with success?
07-07-2004, 11:02 PM
Pete, that sounds like it's worth a try, although I'm not sure it would be as gunk proof as I'd like. Guess I'll have to try it to find out! One of the problems I've encountered is that the algae and floating weeds get caught on the head or body of the fly, or even on the eye of the hook.
I actually started tying a fly like the one Jared describes but I couldn't seem to get it quite right. I bent a hook keel-style and was going to use foam for the body but was having problems forming the body so I could attach it to the hook and position it so it didn't block the hook gap. I think I need a longer shanked hook.
Another thought was to tie a heavily dressed bucktail fly on a keel or bendback hook so that the bucktail helps to float the fly and protect the hook point, and then sliding a drilled-out foam cone or reversed popper onto the tippet ahead of the fly so that the foam covers the hook eye and the head of the fly but only has a tiny hole on the front for the tippet to go through.
Thanks guys! I'll keep experimenting and post my results, hopefully with photos of some monstrous moss-covered largemouths :D .
07-07-2004, 11:55 PM
That sounds like a great idea creating a neat surface bulge.
07-08-2004, 09:07 AM
IMHO algae is a pain. :frown: I haven't found anything that get through it cleanly.
You're not alone, John. I haven't found anything to get through that kind of sludge cleanly either. Grass and pads are easy enough to handle, but algae just plain stinks.
Quentin, I look forward to hearing how your foam tube fly of sorts works out for you.
I usually move to another spot.
But in looking at the problem:
- leader knots catch stuff too, epoxy splice to butt and knotless leader should be used.
- shape of fly counts, slider type floating body with a pointed nose would be best, like the bow of a boat with taper front and rear. This suggest a frog body or mouse for fresh; squid for salt.
- trailing legs / tail do not catch stuff so that's the money dressing area. Tantalize with materials behind the fat turd shaped body :D
- the hook catching crap is the biggest problem. Use a hookless fly and just have fun watching them explode on the fly :p
Seriously, I would tie a turd-slider frog/squid on a nylon tube. That way you can vary the hook all day long. In fact you could use a standard weed-guarded rubber worm hook (with wire guard) one day and go to a large gape popper hook the next, then put a gamakatsu on it in the surf, and even use the weedless hook in mung on the beach - who cares, it's not attached to the fly permanently.
Here's a pic of a banger tube I've been doing well with on Nauset... note how the hook is removed for the photo. The tippet is slid thru the body and any hook you choose can be used. There is a latex extender sleeve (cut from a rubber tube) that slides over the nylon tube core of the fly that holds the hook in a particular position. In this fly's case, the hook's weight was enough to keel the fly in the correct position. However, I offset the tube in any new poppers to add to the keel effect, meaning I don't push the tube thru the center but closer to the belly, putting more floating material on the back of the popper.
This is not forward-tapered but square yet it stays very clean if fished on a floating line even over pretty thick mung as long as the slop is underwater. You can buy attachments for standard power drills to shape foam into double-tapers or use two cone heads on either end of a cylinder and just skim coat with epoxy after coloring.
The possibilities are endless.
07-08-2004, 02:43 PM
Good info Juro!
The banger you show is sort of what I had in mind, but I was thinking of tying the tail/legs to the hook and having only the foam head/body on the tube part. Actually, I wasn't even going to use a tube. I was just going to slide the foam part directly onto the line before tying on the hook. I would make the hole at the back of the foam large enough to allow the "head" of the hook/tail/legs assembly to fit inside the foam. I guess the tube would make the fly more durable, so maybe that is a better method. Good suggestion about positioning the hole for the tube/line closer to the bottom of the foam so that it floats in the proper position.
07-14-2004, 11:26 AM
When using the tube approach, I have often used a piece of tubing slightly shorter than the overall length of the popper body, which allows me to push the hook eye inside the rear of the body and has traditionally kept the hook in the proper plane longer than using the flexible plastic tubing approach. Typically, the popper gets totally trashed by the time I've hooked two- to four-bluefish (dpending on size) anyway, so I have no issues with the difference in performance that the flexible tubing would allow.
Why not try a crease fly with an upturned-hook? Simply trim the underside of the head so that it's more fish-shaped than square, and you have something akin to a slider. Just another idea...