T-14 loop question [Archive] - Fly Fishing Forum

: T-14 loop question

11-12-2003, 09:40 PM
Is there an established method for creating or adding loops to segments of T-14?



11-13-2003, 11:16 AM
I found doubling it over and tying in three consecutive nail Knots works best for me. I used 20# Maxima.

Rick J
11-13-2003, 02:38 PM
I just spent a week on the Grande Ronde fishing with Scott O'Donnell. For all his loops he uses braided mono - either 35# or 50# - create a spliced loop leaving a tag of several inches to slip over the line (I guess you could use pre-maide loops?) He nail knots or whip finishes the tag at the bottom end - coats with aquaseal including the loop to stiffen it - he has never had this loop fail and it does not hinge

11-13-2003, 02:44 PM
I do the same as Scott O'Donnell. Cortland braided mono cord looping inside itself, whip finish and cover with softex. Never had one fail even with Aqualux heads.


11-13-2003, 06:24 PM

I have been doing this for years. The only change is I put a drop or two of superglue on the butt section, allow to dry and then coat the entire loop with aquaseal.

I have had one flyline give way and a section of 35# slick shooter break before but have never had a loop fail.

11-15-2003, 01:06 AM
Try the Gudebrod braided nylon, it is stiffer than the Cortland and one does not need to aqaseal the loop itself - otherwise I echo other comments about strength - the lines give before the braided loop

11-15-2003, 01:42 AM
Where can one order Gudebrod braided nylon online.


11-15-2003, 02:27 AM
Bob Marriot has the Gudebrod braided material in 35 and 50 lb . I use both

I use a double-hitch in braided loops. see Dan Blanton's site

Loon softhead is my favorite for sealing, to plug the end of the line (if a floater), coating the nail knot, and with a *very* light application to slightly stiffen the loop. Much more user friendly then aquaseal and totally reliable

Rick J
11-15-2003, 12:26 PM
It may be obvious but you coat the loop itself to stiffen it and the nail knot/whip finish but you should not coat the entire portion of the loop connection that is slid onto the line. This stuff stretches and contracts when pulled which helps keep it on the line - if you coat the entire connection then the only thing keeping the loop in place is the whip finish

11-15-2003, 01:06 PM
That's why I like Softex. It seems to stretch with the braided mono. Very pliable. Once I have the loop over the line and whip finished in, I pull that loop tight to get the maximum chinese finger trap effect going and then I coat it. Don't dip it in though, it leaves bubbles. I use disposable brushes. The loop will soften up over time and I just recoat. So far so good, but I could start losing all my heads tomorrow. Seems like every time I say something, it all gets messed up. Kind of like bragging about never busting a rod and the next thing you know, I'm walking back to the jeep with more parts than I started with.


11-15-2003, 01:32 PM

Thanks for bringing up about coating or not coating the entire length. I do coat the entire length but I do so under tension. After whip finishing the butt and letting the super glue dry, I hang a hook with 3 or so pounds of weight onto the loop. This puts a good pull on the line and forces the braid to grip well. I then coat the whole deal with aquaseal and let it dry before removing the weight.

As an aside, years ago when I first started splicing lines, I boaught one of the pre-made loops and just secured it with the heat shrink. It actually worked well until I fished one morning with the air temp in the 20s. The water froze to the line during false casting, the braid could't contract and when I made my cast, my tip flew 60' out in the river. :hehe:

11-15-2003, 01:43 PM
While I occasionally use braided mono loops, I much prefer to use Kevlar loops. I attach them much the same as everyone, thread it on, then whip finish with tying thread - both at the end and where the flyline butts up against the loop. Then I cover with Flexament.

I find the kevlar virtually indestructable, I had one that looked a little frazzled last spring that I snagged on a large rock in the Sauk. I ended up breaking the sinktip - the break was about 2" below the end of the loop! BTW, I went back 4 days later when the water had dropped and recovered the tip - it now has a new Kevlar loop attached.

11-15-2003, 02:13 PM
A lot of materials derive fishing strength from their ability to stretch and thus distribute a load over a longer area. So, I've always considered that you lose strength in a braided loop if you secure it at both ends. By allowing it to stretch under load, it can absorb some forces.

Theory only - no tests - and I have also broken sinktips and had the loop hold fine (reg loops, not kevlar)

11-15-2003, 11:19 PM
I've used kevlar loops for a couple of years now and have had no problems to speak of. I have friends who use the braided mono loops and they love them, so either way should work just fine.