: Stripping Basket Cones... tubular dude
In my quest for simplicity and function, not to mention price - the search for a cone to keep line in order in the basket seems to have come to an end, or at least until the field test proves otherwise.
I recently tested the concept of tubes cut at a sharp angle placed on the bottom of the basket and the results were phenomenal. Thus I went out and picked up some plastic durable tubing to take the theory to phase II.
The cones are simply angular cuts of tubing (or solid cylinder but why not hollow) positioned so that:
1) the straight side faces the middle of the basket
2) all slopes angle outward from the center
3) minimal area remains uncut only at the base of the frustum (there's that word again)
I chose the tailpiece to pvc kitchen drain, it's a thinwall pipe that yields 8 cones for approx $3.
I picked up dishpans at about the same price at a large department store and used web belts I already had. I used a razor knife to remove the rim on the beer belly side and it conforms to the gut nicely. Only the rubbermaid and Iris brand plastics are smooth cutting, other brands are brittle and fracture when cutting the rim off or cutting web belt slots. Go with the quality tubs.
The adhesive was aquaseal - I tried devcon plastic weld and marine goop, both failed. I wouldn't bother with anything less although PVC glue might do the trick.
I deburred and sanded the edges quickly before attaching. On the recent prototype I used 8 cones. I only used four for these standard rubbermaid pans because I think four will work well enough.
The design pushes loops away from the center while some percentage falls into the middle. They get randomly spread out into the five regions (4 sides and center) and when pulled tend to gravitate toward the center where all the slopes direct the line. The shooting of line was fantastic in the gen I prototype. We'll see how this one works, if it proves out I will go to using 8 in a larger basket for use with the two-handed rods (they shoot a LOT of running line).
If these prove out then I will use a double snap system to allow removal of the basket without removal of the belt as discussed earlier.
I will report on my second field test FWIW...
Orvis eat your heart out! :p
Looking good. I think your on to something with the angles. Very cool.
The design works great, just as good as any expensive cone system anyway.
- Instead of using just four, might as well blow the other $1.50 and use all eight. Better yet...
- Cut into 6 taller "cones" and use the rubbermaid 17 quart bucket. The standard 12 quart is probably too shallow as the 8th cuts were tall as it was in there. As one changes the diameter of the cut tubes, the dynamics of the cones change as well. Probably a little room for experimentation there.
Since the two-hander works out with 60-70 feet of running line behind the 30 ft head the 17 qt bucket is a much better solution than the common little rubbermaid 12 qt. The 17qt has a big lip edge and will require more surgery than the light-weight cousin but it's depth makes it a much better basket for handling lots of line.
Choosing the right basin is important, most brands are too brittle and crack when working the holes and removing the inside rolled-over lip. Rubbermaid cuts very nicely without cracking, Iris products are also made of the slice-able stuff.
Using a dremel bit makes a very nice slotted hole for the web belt.
I tried a translucent plastic and it really is much safer when walking on rocks, although I have yet to find it in a material that does not crack when cutting. It can be tinted and still let you see the next step on the rocks.
Lucite tubes can be cut to keep the cones clear as well, once the proper basin is found.
Again, the only adhesive I found to work so far was aquaseal. I did not try PVC cement yet.
All in all it's been a very affordable, easy and lightweight solution to the age-old dillema and paves the way for the development of the more serious basket needed for handling entire fly lines and 120 foot shooting lines with the two-hander.
10-14-2003, 04:47 PM
How does this work in a bigger basket for a boat? I'm constantly tangling fly line in the tiller, depthfinder, my feet, the oar lock, baitcasting reel, lunch, coffee cup and so on.
I've tried commercial stripping baskets, and they're better than nothing, most of the time, but something I could set on a seat or tank might be a better idea.
Tried similar baskets in that application? Since part of my fishing is done at anchor on a pretty stiff tide, I'll be fishing from the stern of the boat and swinging line.
If this isn't going to work well, any suggestions on what would work better?
A basket works well on a boat but IMHO the visibility thing pops up again. You need to see your way around on deck.
Also, there are those large barrel style line and rod 'baskets' that would probably work well although I haven't tried them myself they are popular on boats.
They sell spring-frame popup baskets (mesh hampers, vinyl yard barrels) that fold completely flat and pop up to similar dimensions as the barrels used on boats but lightweight and removable. I would imagine you could attach it to snaps on the stern deck and pop it up when fishing, fold it flat when not. Might be worth a try.
The boat think was killing me for most of the season. It got to the point of forcing me over to spin gear since I could not safely run after the fish with line all over the deck. Anyone who has fished on a boat knows the fly line will tangle on the most unlikely objects at the worst possible time.
I've gone to a basket I got at Wally world, I'll try to get some pics and post directions in another thread. It works great.
10-15-2003, 08:23 AM
Juro, you might find a good deal on the tubing if you look at whats used for central vacuum cleaners. The ones I've seen are lighter than the schedule 40 stuff used for plumbing.
Funny you guys should be talking about tangling on a boat. Lately I've started to wear one in freshwater for that reason. The transparent tray would be usefull there also.
Well, here's the summary:
1) frustums of cylinders are easy, cheap and very effective for the purpose
2) four works but eight is twice as good; no need to skimp at the $2 price tag - use eight per basket
3) aquaseal is the best adhesive I found, although 'plastic surgery' appears to be another worth testing out
4) Flattening the tips of the cones is a consideration for those who tend to hit their knuckles on cones. I don't have that problem because of the way I strip retrieve, but I could see how that would occur and it's worth thinking about.
The cones look good. I must be cheap, though. I used .090 in. weed eater line and put a 3 in piece every 2 in. into, it looks like the same plastic pan. Take a lighter and melt the end of a 3-1/2 in. piece of weed eater line, press it flat ,push it through bottom of pan. when all are in place, take 15 min. epoxy and secure them to the pan from both sides. A one dollar pan several years ago and still going, going, going.
11-11-2003, 08:22 AM
does this mean you're not placing the "cone order" we talked about??
No, will still do that. In fact I'll do it this week...
Was at Fred Meyer last night (do you guys have those back east?) and pick up a product by Loctite called Xtreme repair adhesive and tried it out last night. It is flexible goop that looks like it is going to work. Can pick up the tub and shake it around by the frustum and it aint coming loose. Only cost $3.99 for a tube of it but I will warn you it is pretty noxious...
Now where can I get a CND sticker....
11-20-2003, 04:23 PM
Make me a stripping basket and that way I can add to my inventory of "left at the Cape" stuff!
Of course the Logo is "de rigueur"
Just let me know the cost, as you know, I'm in no rush for it so this will give you lots of tiem to get it ready. I'll even accept it as a prototype as yet to be field tested by an international client!
01-01-2004, 04:59 PM
"frustums of cylinders are easy, cheap and very effective for the purpose "
You mentioned that you used 8 cylinders in the 17qt bucket. Did you cut the lenght of these down or are they pretty much one standard lenght?
Happy New Year,
You got it!
I use a thinwall pvc and cut it across at the base of the ellipse. When using 8, they are all symmetric although I wondered about different heights.
The pattern is as follows:
- instead of gluing them in square to the shape of the tub, rotate the pattern to make a diamond shape
- add one more in each corner, slopes of the frustums facing upward and in to guide the shooting line to the center while guiding the dropping stripped line to the edge
01-02-2004, 05:05 AM
Do you put drainage holes in your stripping basket?
Drainage holes are a double-edged sword. You don't want water to come in, but you want water to get out. Water in the tub introduces agitation; any turbulence and the running line is tied in knots.
When a person is standing high above the waterline holes are convenient, when a person is wading or near waves they are a pain.
Since it's easier to drain the tub than to untie line knots, I never put holes in my stripping baskets.
I have a solution that is the best of both worlds but can not discuss it at this time :smokin:
01-02-2004, 12:36 PM
Juro, what about a false bottom in the pan, say a 1/2 inch, something like a plastic garage flooring material that has holes/squares in it and it's light, check it out at your local hardware store?
That way you could avoid the water knots in the basket and after fishing you can use the bucket to do dishes with wifey?
Can't wait to see mine!
01-02-2004, 11:33 PM
Runnermaid impaired Left Coast:
OK, we started our search for the elusive 17 qt Rubbermaid Dish Pan....., Walmart, Target, Dollar Store and our local hardware store, plus calls to Longs and Raleys...., we got the plumbing supplies but Rubbermaid 17 quarters are as rare as 20# stripers on midges. Any suggestions (ie, store names) are appreciated. It's raining out here now, so I need something to do!!
PS, only 149 days til May:eek:
01-03-2004, 12:29 PM
After about 30 minutes playing with Google and web surfing, I think I was able to figure out what I was looking for, but still can't find someone who stocks them.
I got on Rubbermaids Webpage, I think the Rubbermaid Dishpan in question is a Model 2970, they do not list it as a 17 quart size, but rather by dimensions, 7.8" x 12.4" x 15.2", I think this is what I am looking for!
Anyways, if someone in rubbermaid land will give me the name, city or phone # of a place that sells these buggers, I'll call them and order a few!
PS. why do these "simple" projects" always seem to take longer than they should!!:eyecrazy:
Yes, us two-handed rod enthusiasts are doomed to find bigger baskets! :smokin:
The one I saw had handles on each end that I planned on cutting off if they got in the way as they do add a lot of weight. I've cut and sanded down the edges without much problem as long as the material is of high quality, and Rubbermaid is.
The belt straddles the back wall of the cavity so rigidity on the sides is of no real consequence even when the turned-over lip/handle is removed.
I will get the model # next time to the store. I found them at Walmart.
01-04-2004, 10:53 PM
"I got on Rubbermaids Webpage, I think the Rubbermaid Dishpan in question is a Model 2970, they do not list it as a 17 quart size, but rather by dimensions, 7.8" x 12.4" x 15.2",
This is not the dishpan we want. It is white in color and appeared to me to be about the size/depth of my old orvis bucket. If you cannot get the model # from your local walmart store, give me the dimensions. There are several places out here to get plastic tubs, once I get the dimensions of what I am looking for I can complete the project.
Also, I am getting the casting stroke down with the Atlantis. LC -13 cast 110' consistentanly. I KNOW who will catch the first roosterfish on it, (Walt). Look for a post from one of your computer impared west coast buddies in Feb. We are going to try the RIO Tarpon Aqualux Clear Intermediate and some RIO 30' shooters on it. Watch for our test report.
We need to do a winter clave in the Baja, with all my NorthEastern Buddies...., think about it.
Anyways, check you CND email and let me know the dimensions of the casting bucket.
Lastly, a bandsaw does a great job on the tubing, according to my partner, Bill.
08-04-2004, 09:37 AM
Well let me be the first to say that i thank you for your research here and that i made a 12 qrt basket just recently and took it to the river just last sunday. It worked very well with me being able to shoot my entire 12 wt line from it with out a hitch. Im getting ready to leave next wendsday for Assateague Island to fish the surf so i needed this to make the long cast and didnt want to spend $60.00 for a basket. I would also like to add that Shoe Goo that you can pick up at wal-mart will also glue the tube cones in the basket as well and you can pick up a whole 10 foot joint of thin wall pvc pipe to make the tubes at Lowes for $1.46 so i guess that $2.96 for the tub $3.69 for the shoe goo and $1.46 for the pipe of which you can get alot of tubes out of (not that you need them) = $8.60 this is with tax. Sure beats the crap out $60.00 dosent it.
01-19-2005, 12:21 PM
Again, the only adhesive I found to work so far was aquaseal. I did not try PVC cement yet.
I doubt PVC cement would work since it essentially melts the two sections of PVC together. Unless the Rubbermaid tray contains the correct chemicals for this reaction (doubtful), you'll have to stick with Aquaseal.