Rod finish... [Archive] - Fly Fishing Forum

: Rod finish...

04-28-2003, 06:49 PM
... going to start building the "6-wt." next week, and was wondering what everyone's thoughts are on two-part vs. one-part finishes? I've always used the two-part finishes, but am interested in the ease of one-part, though it may take longer to finish the stick. Specifically, I'm looking at U-40 Perma-Gloss. Not going to use color preserver, want the guide feet to show through. TIA...

04-28-2003, 08:06 PM
I've used the u-40 2 part and it works great the syringes make mixing easy and the finish is smooth and thin.

04-28-2003, 08:20 PM
Originally posted by JimW
I've used the u-40 2 part and it works great the syringes make mixing easy and the finish is smooth and thin.

That was my other choice... but I always have an issue with bubbles in the resin while it's curing, since I choose not to use color preserver to seal the thread initially.

04-28-2003, 08:27 PM
(Isn't that how the Board works?:D ) Touching up 'nicks' in your rods finish; what products would you suggest?

Nate Bailey
04-28-2003, 10:57 PM
Fred thin down the flex coat Thin build, apply small amount and turn , if thin enough it will blend.

flyfish try microwaveing (is that a word) your finish this will help with the bubbles , as it drys use a alcohol burner to pop the bubbles, I wander why do you not use preserver? I know there is a misconsecption that color preserved wraps dont last as long, I realy think that the process increases the life of your wraps....It acts as a primer ......Nate

04-29-2003, 12:56 AM

I have use the U-40 Perma Glass on several rods, two that were finished in 1981, and all of them held up very well indeed. Some of them were finished with color presever and some without. The Perma Gloss produced a fine finish either way.

A few things to keep in mind with Perma Gloss: It begins to harden as soon as the bottle is opened because the polyurethane resin it is composed of begins to react with the nitrogen in the atmosphere. Therefore, figure on buying the 1 once size and unless you are going to finish several rods within a two week period, consider the Perma Gloss to be a one rod per bottle finish. It is also rather thin (something I really liked about it) and it takes around 5 or 6 coats to get a first rate, glassy finish. And it requires about 4 or 5 hours of drying time between coats; therefore, figure 3 or more days for the wraps to be finished and another couple of days before you use the rod to make sure it is completely cured.

I prefer to have my rods finished without color preserver simply because I like the translucency you get when the finish is applied directly on the thread. This gives the rod a classic and classy look much like the finish the bamboo masters have used on their guide wraps.

Another really good and durable single part finish is any of the various polyurethane spar varnishes.


U-40 Perma Gloss is very useful to fill in those little nicks, simply brush a coat on and turn the rod section for 3 or four hours. Then put the rod away for 2 or 3 days before you fish it.

My favorite way to deal with these is to use Flex Coat Lite finish. Instead of thinning it, heat it up before you measure it out and mix it. Then apply it as as Nate reccommended. The heating of the unmixed part A and part B makes it thin. This method works like a charm.

04-29-2003, 06:29 AM
As flytyer points out, my reasons for not using color preserver are purely aesthetic; I like to see the guide feet showing through the wraps, it's a neat look.
Nate - I believe that you're right about the added degree of durability that CP gives the wraps, but I tend to take extremely good care of my fly rods and don't think that wrap durability is a factor in light of that.
I'm going to try the Perma Gloss this time, and of course will be using my "lab stopper" rod chucks! I'll post a few pics as I progress...

John Desjardins
04-29-2003, 08:16 AM
When heating a 2 part finish heat only the resin. The pot life will be very short if you heat the mixed epoxy. Just a little tip I learned the hard way. :rolleyes:

04-29-2003, 11:47 AM

Thanks for pointing out the need to heat the unmixed resin and hardener, not the mixed finish. I should have included this is my prior post because I too learned to do this the hard way.

05-01-2003, 08:16 PM
If you find the bubles in your finishing stages are not readily coming out of the finish just ex-hale on the section where the bubles are and 99% of the time they rise to the surface and begone. A couple of Scotches on the breath also seems to help.

Good Luck saltRon <*}}}}><:smokin:

05-01-2003, 08:28 PM
There is mention of heating the resin to acheive a more brushable product but you will still decrease the pot life of these two part compounds. I have with several Mfgs material but mostly Devcon mixed to recomended porportions small amts and then thined by adding two or three drops of isopropol alchol. The material still sets up cures in very close to the specified time . No difference in long term quality has been noticed.

Good Luck saltRon <*}}}}>< :smokin:

05-01-2003, 11:51 PM
I would be very careful about what you use to thin epoxy (two part) rod finishes. Alcohol is usually not a solvent with them and since it is not a solvent, it can really mess up the curing of the finish and can turn it into a sort of congealed snot that never dries. If you feel the need to thin a 2-part finish, use the solvent the manufacturer recommends, and use is very sparingly - a little goes a long way. Also, only use the manufacturer's recommended solvent with the finish already mixed for proper results.

05-02-2003, 01:45 AM
Alchol is ok by devcon and I can assure by over 10 years of use of no adverse reactions. Test a small amt, if it goes bad it will do it on the set up stage. Remember we are talking very small amts both of mix and dilutent.

saltRon <*}}}><