Electronic commections [Archive] - Fly Fishing Forum

: Electronic commections

03-28-2003, 06:55 AM
I will be installing everything from thru-hull transducers to GPS to radios to antennaes to speakers over the next 2 weekends. I am planning on soldering where applicable, covering with heat shrink tubing & liquid electric tape.

My question is, is there something I should be considering that I haven't thought of regarding connections?



03-28-2003, 08:13 AM
Liquid electrical tape was gonna be my suggestion...but you already had that. Looks good to me.


03-28-2003, 08:13 AM
I haven't tried the liquid tape but the heat shrink works great. I used a bunch of it while installing the trolling motors. Your gonna need an avenue to run the antenna wires/cables for the VHF and GPS thru the console. I drilled as small a hole as I could and used a small chrome vent and filled it with a silicone caulk. One mistake I made was not straightening the cable out prior to connecting and caulking. Now I need to cut and reconnect, it's way too long anyway and the coil under the console needs to be cleaned up, get's in the way, and there is allready not enough room under there.
Anyone have any experiance with cutting these cables and attaching a new end connector? Can't be that hard, Right?

03-28-2003, 08:15 AM
BTW, Roop,
Smooth move on the thru-hull transducer. Mine is transome mounted and flips out at any speed over 10-12 kts.
Boy, with all the mistakes, my next boat is gonna be PERFECT.:whoa:

03-28-2003, 09:47 AM
Thanks guys.

Case - I know what you mean re: TM ducer. A buddy of mine has a Garmin that kept flipping off. What a pain in the butt, it finally ripped off one time when we didn't notice.

Thru hull installation is causing some anxiety though, the high speed fairing block is big $$, cut once & cut right as well as the fact that the wiring need to run from the bilge, up a leg in the t-top and into my electronic box. Why don't they provide a connection you can remove/ replace yourself? :mad:

03-28-2003, 12:55 PM
Something you might try before cutting your through-hull. If you're running a fiberglass boat, you might be able to shoot through the hull without losing much in the way of power.

Generally the place to spot your transducer is in the bilge to one side of the keel. This area should have no flotation or wood to interfere with the signal. Place the transducer and level it, and then complete the connection by adding some water to cover the bottom of the transducer. If it works OK, then epoxy or silicone caulk the transducer in place (without the water). Both materials as well as fiberglass are invisible to sonar. As long as you don't have air pockets in the fiberglass, you should be all right.

I used to run fiberglass skiffs this way, and it's a vast improvement over hanging something off the stern.


03-28-2003, 01:16 PM
Keith is right ...vast improvement... most freshwater bass boats have transducers installed this way.....but do not use fast drying epoxy from your fly box (transducer will break lose in a few years)...use longer curing epoxy..rub the transducer around in it a bit to seat it and put a brick on it while it cures.

03-28-2003, 03:21 PM
Thanks guys, considered it but it is not endorsed by Furuno nor have people had much success doing it with older Hydra Sports.

This way I know it will be done right the first time, hopefully.


04-03-2003, 10:40 AM
Roop, did you install the thru-hull transducer yet? And if so, how did it go? I'll use you as a guinnea pig before I attempt it!:devil:

04-03-2003, 10:44 AM
Case - the weather gods need to smile on me. It's no big deal other than the 2" hole I put in the boat, making a one time cut on an $80 high speed fairing block, running the wiring through the bilge up a leg of the t-top and into the electronics box :eek:

Putting the winter frame & tarp back on Friday night so I can wrap up everything in a dry environment this weekend.


04-03-2003, 10:54 AM
I have mounted transdeucers in the bilge as suggested but I used silicone sealant and it was easy and worked as good as a stern mount.
As to the wire connections more is better I must say that of all the items listed for durability I would make a case for the "Liquid Electric Tape" as the number one item to use. I have actually had better luck with crimp on connectors and liquid electrical tape than I have with solder and shrink wraps. I no that coils of wire may appear unsightly but if you cut things too short to remove and adjust you will be dissappointed down the road.